The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone Valley — John Shaqi
The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone ValleyHome, Gordon
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The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone Valley
Home, Gordon
Automobile travel -- France -- Guidebooks; France -- Description and travel
=St. Wandrille.=--Ruins of a Norman abbey in a beautiful valley.
=Jumièges.=--Stately ruins of the Norman abbey church; museum in the
abbey grounds.
=St. Martin Boscherville.=--A picturesquely situated village on
sloping ground, with a great church built in the eleventh century;
it is considered the finest and most complete Norman church in
France.
In spite of the fact that Havre is a port of such magnitude, and that
its tonnage approximates to a quarter of that possessed by France, one
is dependent on the state of the tide for disembarking a car when, after
the night crossing, one finds the ship tied up to the Grand Quai.
Instead of the ranges of dock-sheds and the giant cranes of Southampton,
the ship seems to be lying along the side of a second-rate French
street, and one looks in vain for the great steel arm that should
silently let down a hook to lift the car like a toy from the ship’s
lower deck. So if the tide should be low, one must wait until the deck
is level with the quay--a delay more often than otherwise a boon to a
party adjusting itself and its luggage for a long tour.
Although Havre is an infant port when compared to Marseilles, with its
founding by the Greeks, there are things worth remembering about the
place. When Rollo with his Norsemen in their black-sailed ships hovered
at the mouth of the Seine in preparation for their attack upon Rouen,
there was no Havre, and it was not until six centuries had passed that
François I. gave the order to Guillon le Roy, the Commandant of
Harfleur, on the opposite shore of the estuary of the Seine, to
construct a port for great ships, owing to the necessity for an ocean
seaport after the discovery of America. In 1514 the making of the port
began, and its growth has been continued up to the present day.
[Illustration: TOWN PLAN NO. 1--HAVRE.
_Walker & Boutall sc._]
Of the original town and its defences nothing is left, for even the old
tower of the château in which Cardinal Mazarin imprisoned the Princes of
Condé and of Conti, and the Duke of Longueville, has gone, and the only
relic of the century that saw the birth of the city is the Church of
Notre Dame. It stands in the Rue de Paris, near the Grand Quai, and is a
mixture of the last flicker of Gothic and of Renaissance architecture.
The building would appear to be the successor of the original Church of
Notre Dame de Grâce, founded for the sailors of the port, which then
bore the title of Le Havre-de-Grâce. In 1562 the Huguenots invited the
English to enter the town, and the church tower was used as a gun
platform, so that an effective fire on the royal camp could be
maintained. But the townsmen paid for this by having the spire and walls
of their church taken down. The rebuilding began in 1574, and the
completion of the aisles and chapels took place in the following
century.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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