The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone Valley — John Shaqi
The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone ValleyHome, Gordon
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The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone Valley
Home, Gordon
Automobile travel -- France -- Guidebooks; France -- Description and travel
The coming of Christianity is associated with the name of St. Front,
around whose tomb an oratory was built in the sixth century. Towards the
end of the tenth century an abbey arose on the site, and then, precisely
as at Tours, a new town arose alongside the walled Roman _cité_, and the
dual towns must have had somewhat the appearance of the Carcassonne of
to-day. After being in rivalry for a time, the two portions of Périgueux
were in 1240 united by a solemn treaty.
[Illustration: TOWN PLAN NO. 13.--PÉRIGUEUX.]
_The Cathedral of St. Front_ only became the cathedral after the
mutilation of St. Étienne by the Huguenots. It is a most remarkable
building, in the form of a Greek cross, roofed with five huge domes. The
similarity of the plan to that of St. Mark’s at Venice has suggested
that it was copied from that building, with which it is generally
regarded as contemporary, although a considerable conflict of opinion
has taken place as to its exact age.
At the west end of the domical building there is a roofless structure
consisting of three naves, and whether it is the earlier of the two
still remains in doubt. Félix de Verneilh, a distinguished archæologist,
holds that the domed building was begun in 984, and consecrated in 1047,
and that the roofless church goes back as far as Merovingian times
(fifth and sixth centuries); but latterly there has been a tendency to
date the complete building between 1125 and 1150, and to regard the
ruined structure as the one consecrated in 1047, and burnt in 1120.
The restoration has been so wholesale that, were it not for the domes
and the impressiveness of the colossal square piers, the interior would
be too bald and bare to be interesting. The arches are only slightly
pointed, and this building is, perhaps, the birthplace of French
Gothic. The tower is one of the very earliest, if not the only Byzantine
campanile in France, while the apse is quite modern.
The Bishop’s offices are above the cloisters of the twelfth, thirteenth,
and fourteenth centuries, and, since the demolition of 1903, are all
that remains of the monastery. The site is now an open space, forming a
broad terrace, which gives a delightful view of the river and the wooded
hills, and to a town with so many narrow streets as this it must be a
boon to the inhabitants.
A walk through the old streets of the episcopal town, especially the
_Rues Limogeaune_ and _Aubergerie_, reveals some fine domestic
architecture of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and there are
some old houses defended with machicolation on the quay by the Pont
Vieux. The _Tour Mataquerre_, of the fourteenth century, is a part of
the ramparts of the city.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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