Mary, Queen of Scots, 1542-1587; Queens -- Scotland -- Biography; Scotland -- History -- Mary Stuart, 1542-1567
There exists a bird’s-eye view of the city, probably done by an English
hand, in 1544. It looks a bright, red-roofed, sparkling little town, in
contour much resembling St. Andrews. At St. Andrews the cathedral forms,
as it were, the handle of a fan, from which radiate, like the ribs of the
fan, North Street, Market Street, and South Street, with the houses and
lanes between them. At Edinburgh the Castle Rock was the handle of the
fan. Thence diverged two spokes or ribs of streets, High Street and
Cowgate, lined with houses with red-tiled roofs. Quaint wooden galleries
were suspended outside the first floor, in which, not in the ground floor,
the front door usually was, approached by an outer staircase. Quaintness,
irregularity, broken outlines, nooks, odd stone staircases, were
everywhere. The inner stairs or turnpikes were within semicircular
towers, and these, with the tall crow-stepped gables, high-pitched roofs,
and dormer windows, made up picturesque clumps of buildings, perforated by
wynds. St. Giles’s Church occupied, of course, its present site, and the
‘ports,’ or gates which closed the High Street towards Holyrood, had
turrets for supporters. Through the gate, the Nether Bow, the Court suburb
of the Canongate ran down to Holyrood, with gardens, and groves, and green
fields behind the houses. The towers of the beautiful Abbey of Holyrood,
partly burned by the English in 1544, ended the line of buildings from the
Castle eastward.
[Illustration:
1. Kirk o’ Field Church
2. Holyrood
3. Canongate
4. Netherbow Port
5. Netherbow
6. St. Giles’s Church
7. Cowgate
8. Wynd leading to Kirk o’ Field
9. Castle
10. Calton Hill]
Far to the left of the town, on a wooded height, the highest and central
point of the landscape, we mark a tall rectangular church tower, crowned
with a crow-stepped high-pitched roof. It is the church of Kirk o’ Field,
soon to be so famous as the scene of Darnley’s death.
The blocks of buildings are intersected, we said, by narrow wynds, not yet
black, though, from Dunbar’s poem, we know that Edinburgh was
conspicuously dirty and insanitary. But the narrow, compact, bright little
town running down the spine of rock from the Castle to Holyrood, was on
every side surrounded by green fields, and there were still trout in the
Norloch beneath the base of the Castle cliff, where now the railway runs.
New town, of course, there was none. Most of the town of Mary’s age was
embraced by the ruinous wall, hastily constructed after the defeat and
death of James IV. Such was the city: of the houses we may gain an idea
from the fine old building traditionally called John Knox’s house: if we
suppose it neat, clean, its roof scarlet, its walls not grimy with
centuries of reek. The houses stood among green gardens, hedges, and
trees, and on the grassy hills between the city and the sea, and to the
east and west, were _châteaux_ and peel-towers of lords and lairds.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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