Natural history -- England -- Wiltshire; Wiltshire (England) -- History
This shire may be divided as it were into three stories or stages.
Chippenham vale is the lowest. The first elevation, or next storie, is
from the Derry Hill, or Bowdon Lodge, to the hill beyond the Devises,
called Red-hone, which is the limbe or beginning of Salisbury plaines.
From the top of this hill one may discerne Our Lady Church Steeple at
Sarum, like a fine Spanish needle. I would have the height of these
hills, as also Hackpen, and those toward Lambourn, which are the
highest, to he taken with the quicksilver barometer, according to the
method of Mr. Edmund Halley in Philosophical Transactions, No. 181.
Now, although Mindip-hills and Whitesheet, &c., are as a barr and
skreen to keep off from Wiltshire the westerly winds and raines, as
they doe in some measure repel those noxious vapours, yet wee have a
flavour of them; and when autumnal agues raigne, they are more common
on the hills than in the vales of this country.
The downes of Wiltshire are covered with mists, when the vales are
clear from them, and the sky serene; and they are much more often here
than in the lowest story or stage.
The leather covers of bookes, &c. doe mold more and sooner in the hill
countrey than in the vale. The covers of my bookes in my closet at
Chalke would be all over covered with a hoare mouldinesse, that I could
not know of what colour the leather was; when my bookes in my closet at
Easton-Piers (in the vale) were not toucht at all with any mouldiness.
So the roomes at Winterslow, which is seated exceeding high, are very
mouldie and dampish. Mr. Lancelot Moorehouse, Rector of Pertwood, who
was a very learned man, say’d that mists were very frequent there: it
stands very high, neer Hindon, which one would thinke to stand very
healthy: there is no river nor marsh neer it, yet they doe not live
long there.
The wheat hereabout, sc. towards the edge of the downes, is much
subject to be smutty, which they endeavour to prevent by drawing a
cart-rope over the corne after the meldews fall.
Besides that the hill countrey is elevated so high in the air, the
soile doth consist of chalke and mawme, which abounds with nitre, which
craddles the air, and turns it into mists and water.
On the east side of the south downe of the farme of Broad Chalke are
pitts called the Mearn-Pitts*, which, though on a high hill, whereon is
a sea marke towards the Isle of Wight, yet they have alwaies water in
them. How they came to be made no man knowes; perhaps the mortar was
digged there for the building of the church.
* Marne is an old French word for marle.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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