In his time the Foresters seem to have been a lawless race, and their
lives rough and hard; but nowadays one happy feature of life in the
Forest is the comparative prosperity of its poor. Many own their
cottages, being descended from squatters, and to most of the older
dwellings are attached Forest rights, comprising from one to ten loads
of fuel, either peat or firewood, liberty to turn out cattle or ponies
for a nominal fee, geese or donkeys free, and "pannage" for pigs--that
is, leave to browse in the enclosures in the season of acorn and
beechmast. These advantages are known as "chimney rights", and are
closely connected with the hearthstone. In old days, when lawless or
landless men often sought refuge in the Forest, a custom grew up that
an encroacher who already had a roof on and a fire burning on his
hearth could no longer be dispossessed; so often a hovel of sods,
heather-thatched, was put up in a night and the claim established.
Straggling hamlets of this kind sprang up usually on the border of a
manor, as at the Weirs, at Beaulieu Rails (properly Royal, being Crown
land), and at Hilltop. Now solid cottages in most cases replace the
hovels, and some have got into the hands of the jerrybuilder, with
lamentable results. The almost complete disappearance of the heather
thatch is much to be regretted: it makes a splendid roofing, as
impervious to heat and cold as straw, and its rich brown colour tones
in wonderfully with the moorland landscape, especially when wet with
winter fog and rain.
I have heard the Forester criticized as "independent". Why should he
not be? He works when he needs, often for himself, and there is a
dignity about him, and a determination to stand upon his ancient
rights; he would rather give than take, and he would be affronted if
you offered payment for his little gifts of sloes, of honey, or of
"musharoons". The special forest industries are disappearing; the last
charcoal burner's hut is really only preserved as a curiosity. You
rarely see the gipsies platting mats or baskets, though there is an
old man who still goes round, and sits by the roadside, reseating your
old chairs with cane or rushes.
One of the favourite camping grounds of the gipsies is a crest of
moor, fringed with Scotch firs, called Coldharbour, a name accounted
for by some as _Col d'arbres_, "the ridge or neck of trees". It may
well be, for the pines are a striking feature, very old and in their
grouping very lovely, shorn by the prevailing winds into harmonious
curves, bending away from the sea; for over Setley Plain the sea
winds sweep, and often the sea mists too. Lifting my eyes from my
writing, I can see as many as three caravans drawn up in the shade,
for it is fair-time, and the spot, but just aside from the high road,
affords a night's shelter to these nomads who travel from fair to
fair, pasture too for their horses, and water from a pond formed at
the bottom of an old gravel pit just below.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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