The stones of the little beach are not worn smooth with the tide, but
are loose and rough, held together by sea-holly and yellow
horned-poppy and the coarse tawny grass that disputes the land with
the seaweed. It is a place to dream in; not this time of the building
of ships nor yet of the "White Company", but of long-past days when
the Greek merchants used to come across Gaul from Massilia
(Marseilles) and trade with Lepe for tin. A Roman road then crossed
the Forest from the port to convey merchandise to the settlements of
the Roman Provincials, and William the Norman and his Forest Laws were
not yet looming on the horizon.
In Gilpin's day Lepe was "one of the port towns of the Forest, and, as
it lies opposite Cowes, the common place of embarkation to the
island". He also records the tradition that it was from this remote
port that the Dauphin took ship, on the death of John, after his
fruitless attempt on the English Crown. And here, also, the
unfortunate Charles was brought from Titchfield House on his way to
Carisbrooke under the ill-starred guidance of Ashburnham. "Here he was
seated in an open boat, and from these shores he bade a last farewell
to all his hopes in England."
Well may old Gilpin have averred that this southeast corner holds some
of the loveliest bits of forest scenery, for within sight of the sea
lies an enchanted wood, hard to find, impossible of access by motor, a
place from which the cheap tripper will turn aside with the remark
that there is nothing to see. It is true; yet the initiated may not
impossibly find that the way through the wood is the way through the
ivory gates. For him it holds a charm of restful silence, a beauty of
gleam and gloom, of blue shadow sprinkled with the fairy whiteness of
the enchanter's nightshade, of spaces of sunlight lying on the golden
bracken, broad ways that must surely lead to the magician's castle,
and narrow winding paths that can but have their goal in Elfland.
It is what in these parts we call a holm, a grove of oaks with a thick
underwood of hollies grown into weird shapes with frequent cutting.
Here and there is an aged thorn which has attained almost the size and
girth of a forest tree, and in places Scotch firs lift their stately
heads. In their tops the sea-sound murmurs, and about them is the hot
fragrance the sun draws out of their resinous branches mingling with
the tanny odour of the bracken. An alley through hollies meeting
overhead is like a tunnel; it issues on a broad sunny level where four
roads meet, each beckoning so enticingly, one is fain to sit down
awhile to weigh their claims. One source of the peculiar loveliness of
such a holm is that all the ways are green. The grass will flourish
under oaks and hollies while it perishes under the beech, and where
the fir trees stand, their roots are shrouded in bracken which in
summer takes up the tale of greenness, and when October frosts come
lights up the ways with gold.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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