The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpikeHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpike
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
Here, when once up the rise through Eaton village street, past the
Dutch-like “Red Lion,” the old highway to all intents and purposes ends,
and it is only a suburban two miles, travelled by electric trams, by
which you enter the City of Norwich. It is a noble road, bordered by
young avenues and lined with private residences, but still suburban, and
out of key with old road romance. Along it we come to the junction of
roads opposite the fine Norfolk and Norwich Hospital, where the road
from London, through Colchester and Ipswich, falls in, and both go
forward together down St. Stephen’s Street into the City.
XLVII
DISTINGUISHED travellers of old generally made their entrance here,
through the long-vanished St. Stephen’s Gate in the equally vanished
walls. This way came, in 1600, on his public entry, that dancing Will
Kemp, of whom we have already heard much. On the completion of his ninth
day’s jigging, from Hingham to Barford Bridge and Norwich, he ended at
St. Giles’s Gate, and thence, to avoid the crowd, rode into the City.
Three days later, having duly advertised his intentions, he danced in
through St. Stephen’s Gate. The City Waits assembled to do him honour,
huge crowds pressed forward to see him, the Mayor entertained this
caperer and gave him £5 in Elizabethan angels, and altogether he had a
truly phenomenal reception.
The delightful old City of Norwich was ever hearty and hospitable, and,
although much else be changed, it is so still. No merely ecclesiastic
settlement, the cold glories of its Cathedral are but one phase of
Norwich. Prosperous and self-sufficing in the best sense; its citizens
public-spirited, its situation beautiful, its highways imposing and
byways quaint and curious, Norwich stands by itself, in its likeness to
no other town or city in England. If one must seek a parallel, it is to
Exeter one must look, for there is much in common between the two. Both
are, very distinctly, the capitals of their respective provinces;
Norwich still metropolitan to East Anglia, and Exeter to the West of
England. In both, too, the streets are winding and without plan,
affording facilities, unparalleled elsewhere, of immediately losing your
way.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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