The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpikeHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpike
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
Unhappily—it is purely an antiquarian criticism—the prosperity and
business energy of Norwich have swept away many landmarks of absorbing
interest to the student of the roads, and much havoc has been wrought
with the old coaching-inns. While many of the more obscure old taverns
remain, the great coaching houses, standing on prominent sites and
occupying much valuable ground, have, for the most part, been destroyed.
Only “Rampant Horse Street” now remains to tell of the inn once bearing
that name. The “Maid’s Head,” a splendid specimen of an old hostelry,
remains, it is true, in Tombland, but where is the “King’s Head,” to
which the Newmarket, Thetford, and Norwich Mail once came, and where the
“Coach Office, Lobster Lane,” whence the Cromer Coach, the “Unicorn,” by
North Walsham, set out twice a day? What the “Unicorn” was like we may
see from Pollard’s picture. It was something between an omnibus and a
hearse, and was drawn by a “unicorn” team—_i.e._, three horses; whence
the name of the coach.
[Illustration: THE “UNICORN,” NORWICH AND CROMER COACH.
_From a print after J. Pollard, 1830._]
St. Peter’s, the narrow thoroughfare adjoining Rampant Horse Street,
behind the loop road, and overshadowed by the great bulk of St. Peter
Mancroft, was a great rendezvous for the coaching and carrying
interests, and signs of that old-time feature in its history still
remain in the numerous inns and houses that once were inns, now
converted to other uses. Of these the most important by far was the
“White Swan,” sometimes called, for convenience, merely the “Swan.” Many
years have passed since it retired from public life, and it is now
occupied as a wholesale provision store, for which the spacious old
coach-yard and its great ranges of buildings seem to render it
peculiarly suitable. Many might pass the house unnoticed, for its
red-brick front is severely plain. The old coach-archway, however, is
sufficient to attract the attention of the observant, for although the
fine late seventeenth-century decorative carvings of festooned fruit and
flowers on its framing are blunted by time and many successive coats of
paint, their excellence still proclaims itself to the critical eye. A
cursory glance shows that the house was re-fronted with brick in the
Georgian period, and that beneath that commonplace skin an ancient
building, in parts dating back to the fourteenth and fifteenth
centuries, still exists. A little fragment peeps interestingly from one
corner of the red brick; it is an ancient corner-post, ornamented with
the carving of an armed man. Not even those Georgian builders had the
heart to destroy it.
[Illustration: ST. PETER MANCROFT, AND YARD OF THE “WHITE SWAN.”]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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