The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpikeHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpike
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
Among coaches frequenting the “White Swan” were the “Light Post Coach,”
the “Expedition,” and its successor, the “Magnet,” referred to in the
earlier pages of this book. But long before any coaches ran the “White
Swan” was an important house; the foremost in Norwich. Traces of that
ancient import are not far to seek, and are stimulating to the
imagination, even if facts be wanting. Directly opposite the entrance,
across the very narrow street, is the great church of St. Peter
Mancroft, and in line with it are the ancient Gothic vaulted cellars of
the old inn. Antiquaries, on their periodical visits to Norwich, descend
these depths, and, standing amid the butter-tubs and the sacks of nuts
and miscellaneous groceries, speculate darkly on possible secret
communications between the mediæval inn and the church, with little
enlightenment ever forthcoming.
A ramble over the premises discloses nothing more of really ancient
date, but does reveal something unexpected, in the splendid long room on
the first floor of the buildings stretching down the yard. It dates from
about 1760, and is, architecturally speaking, a noble room, of moulded
ceiling and panelled plaster walls, with a raised platform at one end,
surmounted by a Chippendale shield with coat-of-arms greatly resembling
that of Caius College. It is now degraded to the position of a
stock-room, piled with hams, sacks, and biscuit-boxes, but keeps its
distinction throughout adversity, and is a reminder of times when the
“White Swan” was the centre of Norwich social life; when balls and
assemblies were held beneath its roof, and the original “Theatre Royal,”
nursery of much dramatic talent, was established here. At the “White
Swan” those pioneer players, the “Norwich Company of Comedians, servants
to his Grace the Duke of Norfolk,” as they humbly styled themselves,
began their performance. At that time the play began at 7 p.m., but the
doors were opened at 5. An hour earlier than that, the servants of the
playgoers were sent to keep the seats, which were not highly expensive.
The highest price was half a crown for a box; and the pit, then
fashionable, cost only two shillings. When such prices ruled, the
actor’s lot was not exactly luxurious, and stage-furnishing was quite a
negligible quantity. But dramatic art was never higher than then
XLVIII
IT has been already remarked how winding are the ways of Norwich, and it
is indeed only with difficulty those once in it can find their way out.
If it were required to turn a very pretty compliment to Norwich, here we
have the most obvious foundation for one. But we must on to the coast,
and take the City only incidentally, as its mazy streets are threaded on
the way to the Aylsham road. It is by no means slighting Norwich so to
do, for the City has been described in a short impressionistic sketch at
the close of that companion volume to this, the “Norwich Road.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account