The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpikeHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpike
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
The engine-houses, pumping water and filter-beds of the East London
Water Company are the principal features of the Lea Bridge Road, and one
would not deny them under certain conditions, and at a certain distance,
a grandly impressive quality. At a distance, assuredly, for viewed close
at hand, with the giant machinery seen through the windows, slowly
pulsing up and down to the accompaniment of a warm scent of oil, and
with the lofty chimneys that in their specious ornamentation look afar
off _almost_ like Venetian _campanili_, seen really to be sooty
smokestacks, it is astonishing how commonplace they become. And when you
think of it, considering the matter on the basis of a wide acquaintance
with waterworks, how singularly dry, husky, coaly, and gritty, and void
of any suggestion of water these gigantic engine-houses of the great
water companies always are!
The Lea Bridge Road, and indeed Woodford also, and Epping Forest
generally, are to be avoided by quiet folks on Saturdays, Sundays, and
at times of public holiday, when the costermonger and his purple-faced
“missus” drive their cowhocked ponies and attendant traps recklessly to
the “Wake Arms,” to the “Robin Hood,” or to the pubs of Chingford, and
all the waggonettes and all the beanfeasters in the East End of London
are making merry in elephantine fashion.
The road finally leaves Walthamstow and the valley of the Lea at Knott’s
Green and Whip’s Cross—at the present time an abject, down-at-heel
compromise between a striving unsuccessful suburb and the open country.
But in these latter days, when the neighbourhood of London changes with
such startling rapidity, the true description of to-day may very
reasonably be the misleading record of to-morrow, and that squalid air
of failure which belongs to those places at the present time of writing
may already, ere these lines attain the dignity of print, have given
place to an era of substantial and prosperous expansion.
Nothing is more depressing than the unsuccessful suburb, created out of
nothing by the too sanguine builder in one of his inflated moments. It
brings disaster, not only upon the author of its being, who reaps the
harvest of his rashness in foreclosed mortgages and the Bankruptcy
Court, but upon those enterprising callow tradesfolk who, embarking upon
businesses of their own with insufficient resources, cannot tide over
the time of no trade, and leave a record of their failure in deserted
shops still proclaiming the virtues of the tea that no one ever bought
and the advantages of those “bargain sales” that failed to attract.
Whip’s Cross, as its name would imply, stands at a junction of roads. It
forms the entrance to Epping Forest, and is said to have obtained the
first part of its name from being the place whence the Forest
deer-stealers were formerly whipped at the cart’s tail; but such things
are now quite put out of sight and forgotten in these marchlands of town
and suburbs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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