The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpikeHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpike
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
THE ditchwater-dull town of Bury comes to an end with Northgate Street
and its continuation of “Out-Northgate”; past the curious railway
station built in the Jacobean style, and presenting an odd likeness to
some ancient mansion of the Hatfield House type, through whose centre a
railway has been driven, leaving only the wings standing. Everything is
on the largest scale: broad roads, with few people in them; great brick
railway bridge over them; tall cupola’d towers of the station looking
down upon them, and roomy houses facing them. Resultant emptiness and
chilly vastness, infinitely uncomfortable and unhomely.
At the end of Out-Northgate, looking upon the footpath, are the
shattered remains of St. Saviour’s Hospital, very small and unobtrusive.
It is possible to stand here the livelong day and challenge the
passers-by with questions about this old ruin, and to find when day is
done that a monumental ignorance prevails upon the subject. Yet it is an
historic place, for it was here that, according to tradition, the good
Duke Humphrey of Gloucester was found strangled in 1446.
At the “Toll-house” inn the road forks, continuing on the right to
Fornham St. Martin and Thetford along the dullest of roads. Away to the
left hand is Fornham St. Geneviève, the scene of the obscure Battle of
Fornham, fought in 1173. That was a short-lived rebellion crushed here
in that year at the passage of the little river Lark. The aggrieved Earl
of Leicester, striving against Henry II. and flying the country, had
returned with an army of Flamand mercenaries, and, marching across
country, made for St. Edmundsbury. He had come thus far when he was met
by a strong force opposing any further advance, and completely routed
near the church. It remained for modern times to discover the bodies of
the many slain on this occasion. A hoary and decayed ash-tree that from
time immemorial had grown at the crest of a great mound was being
demolished, when at its roots the awe-struck countrymen uncovered a
number of skeletons neatly arranged in a circle, one above the other;
and somewhere about the same time a gold ring of antique design, thought
to have belonged to the Countess of Leicester, was fished up from the
river-bed, together with relics of the pots and pans of that overwhelmed
host, and some Henry II. pennies that those slaughtered men-at-arms had
doubtless hoped to expend in long drinks at Bury, after the hoped-for
victory was won. The ancient church of Fornham St. Geneviève was burned
down, June 24th, 1782, through the extraordinary accident of a man
shooting at jackdaws and firing into the thatched roof. The ruins stand
in Fornham Park, and fill the humble office of helping to support a
water-tank.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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