The North Devon CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The North Devon Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Devon (England) -- Description and travel
Point Desolation is the name given to one of the headlands on the
way, and “Rodney” the name of a cottage, now deserted, in a dark
cleft, overhung with trees. Finally, the green drive conducts to a
very welcome granite seat overlooking a wide expanse of sea, and
thence through a gateway marked “private.” This is the entrance to
the Glenthorne grounds, which are not so strictly private as the
stranger might suppose. Through the gateway, the path continues,
bordered here with laurels and fir-trees, and so dips down toward the
mansion, built in 1830, in the domestic Gothic style, on a partly
natural terrace, three parts of the way down the wooded cliffs and
hillsides that go soaring up to a height of five hundred feet. The
house is situated exactly on the borderline of Devon and Somerset, and
is in the loneliest situation imaginable; having, indeed, been in the
old days a favourite spot with the smugglers of these coasts. It was
built, and the grounds enclosed, by the Reverend W. S. Halliday, a
person whose eccentricities may yet be heard of at Lynmouth. One of his
peculiar amusements was the sardonic fancy for burying genuine Roman
coins in places where it is thought no Romans ever penetrated, with
the expressed idea of puzzling future antiquaries. It seems--since he
cannot be there to chuckle over the jest--a strange kind of humour.
[Illustration: GLENTHORNE.]
The long ascent from Glenthorne, through the woods, is extraordinarily
tiring, beautiful though those woods be, and aromatic with piny odours.
The carriage-drive, zigzagging up, is steep, and a halt by the way,
every now and then, more grateful and comforting than even a famous
cocoa is advertised to be. But that ascent in the shade is a mere
nothing to the further treeless ascent to the coach-road, under the
July sun. Bare grassy combes, and white roads that wind round the
mighty shoulders of the hills exhaust the wayfarer, who at last, taking
on trust the prehistoric camp of Old Barrow, perched on a steep height,
gains the dull highway with a sigh of relief. I daresay a good many
of the sardonic Mr. Halliday’s Roman coins are buried in Old Barrow,
awaiting antiquarian discovery.
The way back to Lynmouth, crossing Countisbury Common, has some
beautiful glimpses away on the left, over the wooded valley of the East
Lyn.
CHAPTER V
THE NORTH WALK--THE VALLEY OF ROCKS--LEE “ABBEY”--WOODA BAY--HEDDON’S
MOUTH--TRENTISHOE--THE HANGMAN HILLS
And so at last to leave Lynmouth.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account