The North Devon CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The North Devon Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Devon (England) -- Description and travel
It is by no means necessary to take Lynton on the way to the Valley
of Rocks and the coast-walk to Wooda Bay and Heddon’s Mouth. The
cliff-path known as the North Walk avoids Lynton, and, climbing up
midway along the hillside, forms a secluded route of the greatest
beauty. It was cut in 1817 by a public-spirited Mr. Sanford. Until that
time, there was no path, and only the most hardy climbers, at the risk
of falling headlong into the sea, ever attempted to make their way by
this route. It is merely a footpath, and so not in any way injurious
to the wild, romantic nature of the scenery. Were some injudicious
person, or local authority, to conceive the idea of forming it into a
broad road, not Nature herself could, short of a convulsion, remedy
the scar that would be made for all the neighbourhood to see. Trees
cannot grow on this stony hillside, to hide such things; the great gash
made for the Lift, or Cliff Railway, which here runs at right-angles
up hill, being only by good fortune screened through ascending by a
route affording foothold for shrubs and undergrowth. It is now, indeed,
hidden in a degree those who saw the raw wound in 1890 dared not hope
for. Kindly Nature, dear, forgiving, long-suffering, immortal mother,
to whom we all come, weary, for rest at last, to your ample bosom, how
great soever be our enormities, you bear with them all and, smiling,
resume your way.
This rocky walk, winding past one grey crag after another, is rich
in towered and spired masses and jutting pinnacles. Sometimes they
rise up for all the world like pedestals rudely shaped to receive
statues; but they would need to be statues of heroic size and pose to
fit these surroundings. The eye ranges along the coast, past Castle
Rock and Duty Point, to the softly rounded masses of woods covering
the hillsides enclosing Wooda Bay; and only the restless, resistless
spirit of exploration forbids long lingering here and there, on those
occasional seats provided by the thoughtful Urban District Council that
rules the twin places, Lynmouth and Lynton, and perseveringly tries
to reconcile their jealousies. But one must needs rest awhile at that
point where the North Walk, bending to the left, enters the Valley of
Rocks. Here a convenient seat is placed, commanding a view backwards
to Lynmouth and the Foreland, and looking down from a sheer height on
to great emptinesses of blue, sunlit sea. Seagulls wheel and cry, or
poise suddenly, on idle extended pinions, whimsically like a cyclist
“free-wheeling”; excursion steamers, to and from Ilfracombe and other
resorts, go by, and in the still August sea leave more than mile-long
creamy wakes of foam traced in the blue, until they become indistinct
in distance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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