The Norwich Road: An East Anglian HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Norwich Road: An East Anglian Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Norwich Road
"After the scole of Stratford-attè-Bowe,
For French of Parys was to hire unknowe."
In Chaucer's day they probably taught French, of sorts, at the Priory
schools.
[Illustration: ALDGATE PUMP. _From a Drawing by T. Hosmer Shepherd_,
1854.]
At that time it was no little journey to Stratford, although by
measurement less than four miles, and the lady went strongly escorted,
as, indeed, did all of consequence, or those who had aught to lose.
For the more common wayfarers who went alone on this desperate eastern
trail there stood the Chapel and the Holy Well of St Michael the
Archangel within the City, where the otherwise unprotected might seek
the aid of the Saint's strong arm before leaving the walled City behind
on their perilous faring. This chapel stood where Leadenhall Street,
Fenchurch Street and Aldgate meet, on a site thrown into the roadway
in 1876, when the street was widened. Until that year the crypt of
this shrine had filled the prosaic functions of a cellar in the corner
house, itself demolished, together with the beautiful Early English
arches on which it stood. Adjoining was "Aldgate Pump," which had long
before unromantically taken the place of the sanctified spring. That
celebrated civic monument is seen in the accompanying illustration,
taken in 1854. Many City wits have exercised their satirical powers
upon it, and the expression long current of "a draft on Aldgate Pump,"
a once popular mercantile phrase for a bad note, goes back so far as
the days of Fielding. Oddly enough, the water of the pump retained some
repute until 1876, when, on being analysed, it was found impure, and
the supply closed. The pump, however, is still in existence, rebuilt
of its original stones, a few feet away from the old site, and yields
water again; not, however, from the old saintly source, but from the
strictly secular filter-beds of the New River Water Company.
[Illustration: YARD OF THE "BULL," LEADENHALL STREET. _From a Drawing
by T. Hosmer Shepherd_, 1854.]
Having implored the protection of St Michael, travellers of old
went, heartened, upon their way down what is now Whitechapel High
Street, which Strype, writing in the time of James the First, calls
a "spacious fair street," with "sweet and wholesome air." Past
hedgerows of elm trees and rustic stiles and bridges, those old
wayfarers went, and onward down the Whitechapel Road, where the
country was a lovely solitude, with "nothing but the bounteous gifts
of Nature and saint-like tokens of innocency," which, according to Sir
Thomas More, in 1504, characterised the charming fields of Mile End,
Shadwell, Stepney and Limehouse. This, it will be allowed, is scarcely
descriptive of those places to-day, whatever they may become when the
People's Palace and the University Settlements have done their work.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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