The Norwich Road: An East Anglian HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Norwich Road: An East Anglian Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Norwich Road
Thus far for sake of contrast. Let us return to Aldgate for a while,
and, without following its fortunes throughout the centuries, glance at
it in the Coaching Age, before the squalor of modern Whitechapel had
invaded it from the east, or the extension of City business had come to
destroy most of that picturesque assemblage of old inns and mediæval
gabled houses, to replace them with the giant warehouses and "imposing"
offices of modern London.
IV
ALTHOUGH, as we have seen, the East Anglian roads were, in coaching
days, measured from Whitechapel Church, the great actual starting-place
was Aldgate, where many of the old inns were situated, as, in like
manner, the ancient hostelries of the Borough clustered at the
beginning of the road to Canterbury and Dover. Aldgate occupies a
position midway between London Stone, the Roman starting-point in
Cannon Street, and Whitechapel Church, and to and from this spot came
and went the stage-coaches, post-chaises and waggons in the palmy days
of the road. The mail-coaches, of course, had a starting-point of their
own, and set out from the old General Post-Office in Lombard Street,
or, in the last years of coaching, from St Martin's-le-Grand.
[Illustration: FRONT OF THE "SARACEN'S HEAD," ALDGATE: PRESENT DAY.]
It is true that one might have taken coach from many other and more
central inns for Colchester, Ipswich and Norwich:--from the "Spread
Eagle," in Gracechurch Street, a fine old galleried inn demolished at
the close of 1865; from the "Cross Keys," in the same street; from the
"Swan with Two Necks," in Lad Lane, anciently Lady Lane (that is to
say, the Lane of Our Lady, the Blessed Virgin), now Gresham Street;
or from the "Bull," 151 Leadenhall Street, which must by no means be
confounded with its namesake in Aldgate High Street. Exactly what
that Leadenhall Street hostelry was like let the picture of its old
galleried courtyard show.
There was also "another way" to Norwich; out of Bishopsgate, by way
of Newmarket, Bury and Thetford. Taking this route, which, although
2½ miles shorter, no true sportsman considered to be the real Norwich
Road, one started from the "Golden Cross," Charing Cross; from the
"White Horse," in Fetter Lane (improved away in 1898); from the
"Flower Pot," in Bishopsgate Street; from yet another "Bull," also in
Bishopsgate Street; or from the "Bull and Mouth," St Martin's-le-Grand.
But when all these places have been duly set forth, it is to Aldgate
that we must turn as the real starting-point.
[Illustration: YARD OF THE "SARACEN'S HEAD" IN COACHING DAYS. _From a
Drawing by T. Hosmer Shepherd_, 1854.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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