The Nut Culturist: A Treatise on Propogation, Planting, and Cultivation of Nut Bearing Trees and Shrubs Adapted to the Climate of the United States — John Shaqi
The Nut Culturist: A Treatise on Propogation, Planting, and Cultivation of Nut Bearing Trees and Shrubs Adapted to the Climate of the United StatesFuller, Andrew S. (Andrew Samuel)
Science
The Nut Culturist: A Treatise on Propogation, Planting, and Cultivation of Nut Bearing Trees and Shrubs Adapted to the Climate of the United States
Fuller, Andrew S. (Andrew Samuel)
Nuts
When the bud is in position and fitted to the stock, as shown, wind
the raffia, or other material used, around the stock, both above and
below, covering the entire incision, leaving only the bud and part
of leafstalk uncovered. Of course experienced propagators have their
own individual systems and modes of operation, but the above may be
taken as a safe guide for the amateur budder. The ligatures should
be loosened or removed as soon as the bud has become firmly united
with the stock, which will usually be in ten or fifteen days, if at
all. When the buds have failed, others may be inserted, provided, of
course, the stocks are in condition to admit of the operation.
Exceptions, however, may be made where the budding has been done so
late in the season that the stock has ceased to grow by the time the
buds have taken, and in such cases the ligatures may be left on
later and removed any time before winter. In cold climates the snow,
ice and water are likely to get in around the bud if the ligatures
are not removed. But where the stocks are vigorous and the buds set
early, there will be danger of the ligatures cutting into the bark
as the stocks swell or increase in diameter, unless they are
loosened or entirely removed.
[Illustration: FIG. 6. BUD IN POSITION.]
Under ordinary circumstances budded stocks should not be headed back
until the following spring, and then should be cut off two or three
inches above the inserted bud; and when this pushes into growth, all
suckers and sprouts below and above it should be rubbed off as they
appear, for the object is to throw the entire strength of the stock
into this one bud, and when this has made a growth of two or three
feet the short stump of the stock above the base of the shoot may be
carefully removed with a sharp knife. This is usually done the last
of July or first of August, which gives time for the healing of the
wound before the close of the growing season. Sometimes it may be
necessary to place small stakes by the side of these shoots for
their support and to prevent breaking at the point of union with the
stock; but this will rarely be necessary, except in very exposed
situations.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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