The Nut Culturist: A Treatise on Propogation, Planting, and Cultivation of Nut Bearing Trees and Shrubs Adapted to the Climate of the United StatesFuller, Andrew S. (Andrew Samuel)
Science
The Nut Culturist: A Treatise on Propogation, Planting, and Cultivation of Nut Bearing Trees and Shrubs Adapted to the Climate of the United States
Fuller, Andrew S. (Andrew Samuel)
Nuts
If the young trees make a fairly good growth they will be ready for
planting out in the orchard the following spring, and one-year-old
almond trees are usually preferable for transplanting than older. It
is not advisable to prune these young trees during the growing
season the first summer, but allow all the side shoots or branches
to grow unchecked, for by so doing we secure a more stocky plant, if
not as tall a one, than we would if trimming up was practiced. But
when the trees are taken up for transplanting, in the late fall or
early spring, then they may be pruned and the lateral branches cut
off close to the main stem, leaving a naked rod, and if low-headed
trees are desired (and they usually are), cut back the main stem to
about three feet from the ground. If the young trees have made a
growth of from four to six feet, then prune away the lateral
branches to a hight of three feet or a little more, and cut in all
branches above this point to within four to six inches of the main
stem, leaving the buds on these stumps to form the head of the tree.
Four or five branches at the top of the stem will be sufficient for
the foundation for an open, round-headed tree, or in what may be
termed a vase form, which is the best for almonds.
=Soil and Exposure for Almonds.=--The almond requires a warm, rather
light and well-drained soil. Cold, heavy clays, and low, moist
soils, whether light or heavy, are always to be avoided for the
almond and closely allied trees. That the soil should be moderately
rich is, of course, a condition required with all cultivated nut and
fruit trees, but over-stimulation may result in excessive and
immature growth late in the season, this leaving the twigs in such a
state that they will be unable to resist even a few degrees of
frost, to which they may be subjected the ensuing winter. In what
are generally termed mild climates, or where the temperature seldom
goes more than four to six degrees below the freezing point, hardy
trees, if they have made a late growth, are often injured more than
they would have been in a colder climate, with early matured wood.
There are many kinds of what we consider very hardy trees and shrubs
here in the North, that are very likely to be winterkilled or
severely frosted when grown at the South, simply because the
conditions are such that they do not ripen up in time to resist the
cold.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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