The Ocean and Its WondersBallantyne, R. M. (Robert Michael)
Science
The Ocean and Its Wonders
Ballantyne, R. M. (Robert Michael)
Ocean
Not many years ago a vessel, while crossing the Atlantic, was overtaken
by a violent storm. The sea rose in its might; the good ship reeled
under the combined influence of wind and waves. While the majority of
the passengers sought refuge from the driving spray in the cabin, one
eccentric old gentleman was seen skipping about the deck with unwonted
activity--now on the bulwarks, now on the quarter-deck, and anon in the
rigging; utterly regardless of the drenching sea and the howling wind,
and seeming as though he were a species of human stormy petrel. This
was the celebrated Dr Scoresby; a man who had spent his youth and
manhood in the whale-fishing; who, late in life, entered the Church,
and, until the day of his death, took a special delight in directing the
attention of sailors to Him whose word stilled the tempest and bade the
angry waves be calm. Being an enthusiast in scientific research, Dr
Scoresby was availing himself of the opportunity afforded by this storm
to _measure the waves_! Others have made similar measurements, and the
result goes to prove that waves seldom or never rise much more than ten
feet above the sea-level. The corresponding depression sinks to the
same depth, thus giving the entire height of the largest waves an
elevation of somewhere between twenty and thirty feet. When it is
considered that sometimes the waves of the sea (especially those off the
Cape of Good Hope) are so broad that only a few of them occupy the space
of a mile, and that they travel at the rate of about forty miles an
hour, we may have some slight idea of the grandeur as well as the power
of the ocean billows. The forms represented in our illustration are
only wavelets on the backs of these monster waves.
Waves travel at a rate which increases in proportion to their size and
the depth of water in which they are formed. Every one knows that on
most lakes they are comparatively small and harmless. In some lakes,
however, such as Lake Superior in North America, which is upwards of
three hundred miles long, the waves are so formidable as to resemble
those of the ocean, and they are capable of producing tremendous
effects. But the waves of the sea, when roused to their greatest
height, and travelling at their greatest speed, are terrible to behold.
Their force is absolutely irresistible. Sometimes waves of more than
usually gigantic proportions arise, and, after careering over the broad
sea in unimpeded majesty, fall with crushing violence on some doomed
shore. They rush onward, pass the usual barriers of the sea-beach, and
do not retire until horrible devastation has been carried far into the
land.
Maury gives the following anecdote from the notes of a Russian officer,
which shows the awful power of such waves.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account