Hamel in peace time may have contained forty houses, some shatters of
which still stand. There are a few red-brick walls, some frames of
wood from which the plaster has been blown, some gardens gone wild,
fruit trees unpruned and more or less ragged from fire, and an air of
desecration and desertion. In some of the ruins there are signs of
use. The lower windows are filled with sandbags, the lower stories
are strengthened with girders and baulks. From the main road in the
valley, a country track or road, muddy even for the Somme, leads up
the hill, through the heart of the village, past the church, towards
our old line and Auchonvillers.
Not much can be seen from the valley road in Hamel, for it is only a
few feet above the level of the river-bed, which is well grown with
timber not yet completely destroyed. The general view to the eastward
from this low-lying road is that of a lake, five hundred yards across,
in some wild land not yet settled. The lake is shallow, blind with
reeds, vivid with water-grass, and lively with moor-fowl. The trees
grow out of the water, or lie in it, just as they fell when they were
shot. On the whole, the trees just here, though chipped and knocked
about, have not suffered badly; they have the look of trees, and are
leafy in summer. Beyond the trees, on the other side of the marsh, is
the steep and high eastern bank of the Ancre, on which a battered
wood, called Thiepval Wood, stands like an army of black and haggard
rampikes. But for this stricken wood, the eastern bank of the Ancre is
a gentle, sloping hill, bare of trees. On the top of this hill is the
famous Schwaben Redoubt.
The Ancre River and the marshy valley through which it runs are
crossed by several causeways. One most famous causeway crosses just in
front of Hamel on the line of the old Mill Road. The Mill from which
it takes its name lies to the left of the causeway on a sort of green
island. The wheel, which is not destroyed, still shows among the
ruins. The enemy had a dressing station there at one time.
The marshy valley of the Ancre splits up the river here into several
channels besides the mill stream. The channels are swift and deep,
full of exquisitely clear water just out of the chalk. The marsh is
rather blind with snags cut off by shells. For some years past the
moor-fowl in the marsh have been little molested. They are very
numerous here; their cries make the place lonely and romantic.
When one stands on this causeway over the Ancre one is almost at the
middle point of the battlefield, for the river cuts the field in two.
Roughly speaking, the ground to the west of the river was the scene of
containing fighting, the ground to the east of the river the scene of
our advance. At the eastern end of the causeway the Old Mill Road
rises towards the Schwaben Redoubt.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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