All the way up the hill the road is steep, rather deep and bad. It is
worn into the chalk and shows up very white in sunny weather. Before
the battle it lay about midway between the lines, but it was always
patrolled at night by our men. The ground on both sides of it is
almost more killed and awful than anywhere in the field. On the
English or south side of it, distant from one hundred to two hundred
yards, is the shattered wood, burnt, dead, and desolate. On the enemy
side, at about the same distance, is the usual black enemy wire, much
tossed and bunched by our shells, covering a tossed and tumbled chalky
and filthy parapet. Our own old line is an array of rotted sandbags,
filled with chalkflint, covering the burnt wood. One need only look at
the ground to know that the fighting here was very grim, and to the
death. Near the road and up the slope to the enemy the ground is
littered with relics of our charges, mouldy packs, old shattered
scabbards, rifles, bayonets, helmets curled, torn, rolled, and
starred, clips of cartridges, and very many graves. Many of the
graves are marked with strips of wood torn from packing cases, with
pencilled inscriptions, "An unknown British Hero"; "In loving memory
of Pte. ----"; "Two unknown British heroes"; "An unknown British
soldier"; "A dead Fritz." That gentle slope to the Schwaben is covered
with such things.
Passing these things, by some lane through the wire and clambering
over the heaps of earth which were once the parapet, one enters the
Schwaben, where so much life was spent. As in so many places on this
old battlefield, the first thought is: "Why, they were in an eyrie
here; our fellows had no chance at all." There is no wonder, then,
that the approach is strewn with graves. The line stands at the top of
a smooth, open slope, commanding our old position and the Ancre
Valley. There is no cover of any kind upon the slope except the rims
of the shell-holes, which make rings of mud among the grass. Just
outside the highest point of the front line there is a little clump of
our graves. Just inside there is a still unshattered concrete fortlet,
built for the machine gun by which those men were killed.
All along that front trench of the Schwaben, lying on the parapet,
half buried in the mud, are the belts of machine guns, still full of
cartridges. There were many machine guns on that earthen wall last
year. When our men scrambled over the tumbled chalky line of old
sandbags, so plain just down the hill, and came into view on the
slope, running and stumbling in the hour of the attack, the machine
gunners in the fortress felt indeed that they were in an eyrie, and
that our fellows had no chance at all.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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