The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 1 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own CountryHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 1 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own Country
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Social life and customs; Hotels -- England
This was the type of hostelry that, apart from the mere tavern, or
alehouse, remained for so many centuries typical of the English good-class
inns. It was at once, in a sense--to compare old times with new--the hotel
and railway-station of an age that knew neither railways nor the class of
house we style “hotel.” It was the fine flower of the hostelling business,
and to it came and went the carriers’ waggons, the early travellers riding
horseback, and, in the course of time, as the age of wonderful inventions
began to dawn, the stage and mail-coaches. Travellers of the most gentle
birth, equally with those rich merchants and clothiers who were the
greatest travellers in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, inned at
such establishments. It was at one such that Archbishop Leighton ended. He
had said, years before, that “if he must choose a place to die in, it
should be an inn, it looking like a pilgrim’s going home, to whom this
world was an inn, and who was weary of the noise and confusion of it.” He
died, that good and gentle man, at the “Bell” in Warwick Lane, in 1684.
London, once rich in hostelries of this type, has now but one. In fine, it
is not in the metropolis that the amateur of old inns of any kind would
nowadays seek with great success; although, well within the memory of most
people, it was exceptionally well furnished with them. It was neither good
taste nor good business that, in 1897, demolished the “Old Bell,” Holborn,
a pretty old-world galleried inn that maintained until the very last an
excellent trade in all branches of licensed-victualling; and would have
continued so to do had it not been that the greed for higher ground-rent
ordained the ending of it, in favour of the giant (and very vulgar)
building now occupying the spot where it stood. That may have been a
remunerative transaction for the ground-landlord; but, looking at these
commercial-minded clearances in a broader way, they are nothing less than
disastrous. If, to fill some private purses over-full, you thus callously
rebuild historic cities, their history becomes merely a matter for the
printed page, and themselves to the eye nothing but a congeries of crowded
streets where the motor-omnibuses scream and clash and stink, and citizens
hustle to get a living. History, without visible ancient buildings to
assure the sceptical modern traveller that it is not wholly lies, will
never by itself draw visitors.
Holborn, where the “Old Bell” stood, was, until quite recent years, a
pleasant threshold to the City. There stood Furnival’s Inn, that quiet
quadrangle of chambers, with the staid and respectable Wood’s Hotel. Next
door was Ridler’s Hotel, with pleasant bay-window looking upon the street,
and across the way, in Fetter Lane, remained the “White Horse” coaching
inn; very much down on its luck in its last years, but interesting to
prowling strangers enamoured of the antique and out-of-date.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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