The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 2 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own Country — John Shaqi
The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 2 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own CountryHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 2 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own Country
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Social life and customs; Hotels -- England
Should the ancient hermit, whose picturesquely situated, but damp, cave on
the hillside used to be shown to visitors, be ever suffered in spirit to
return to his rheumaticky cell, I think he would find the scenery of Dale
much the same as of old, but from his eyrie he would perceive a strange
thing: a gigantic cone-shaped mountain in the near neighbourhood, with
spouts and tongues of fire flickering at its crest: a thing that fully
realises the idea of a volcano. This is the immense slag-heap of the
ironworks at Stanton-by-Dale, impressive even to the modern beholder.
Of Dale Abbey itself, few fragments are left: only the tall gable
containing the east window standing up gaunt and empty in a meadow, and
sundry stone walls of cottages and outhouses, revealing that once proud
house.
The “Falcon” at Bidford, near Stratford-on-Avon, associated with
Shakespeare, is now a private house, and the once busy rural “Windmill”
inn at North Cheriton, on the cross-country coach-road between Blandford
and Wincanton, retired from business forty years ago. It is remarkable for
having attached to it a tennis-court, originally designed for the
entertainment of customers in general and of coach-passengers in
particular. Waiting there for the branch-coach, travellers whiled away the
weary hours in playing the old English game of tennis.
[Illustration: THE “BELL” INN, DALE ABBEY.]
Perhaps the finest of the inns that are inns no more was the famous
“Castle” inn at Marlborough. It was certainly the finest hostelry on the
Bath Road, as the inquisitive in such things may yet see by exploring the
older building of Marlborough College. For that was the aristocratic
“Castle” until 1841, when the Great Western Railway was opened to Bath and
Bristol, and so knocked the bottom out of all the coaching and the
licensed-victualling business between London and those places.
[Illustration: THE “WINDMILL,” NORTH CHERITON.]
I have termed the “Castle” ‘aristocratic,’ and not without due reason. The
site was originally occupied by the great castle of Marlborough, whose
origin itself goes back to the remotenesses and vaguenesses of early
British times, before history began to be. The great prehistoric mound
that (now covered with trees) still darkens the very windows of the modern
college buildings was first selected by the savage British as the site of
a fortress, and is in fact the “bergh” that figures as “borough” in the
second half of the place-name. From the earliest times the Mound was
regarded with awe and reverence, and was the centre of the wild legends
that made Marlborough “Merleberg” or “Merlin’s town”: home of the great
magician of Arthurian legend. Those legends had never any foundation in
fact, and even the otherwise credulous antiquaries of the sixteenth and
seventeenth centuries dismiss them as ridiculous, but the crest
surmounting the town arms still represents the Mound, and a Latin motto
dedicatory to “the bones of the wise Merlin” accompanies it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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