Many recipes have been left by the ancients, the preparations varying as
to time, strength of solutions, mixtures of spices, etc. To the recipes
of Palladius (1518-1580) is owed the knowledge that the Romans were
cognizant of and used lye solutions, though this is supposed to be a
modern practise. In this particular recipe sifted ashes are indicated as
one of the ingredients, and it is supposed that this recipe, changed in
detail, furnished the basis for present day methods. The use of wood
ashes was introduced into France by an Italian refugee named Picholini,
who settled in Provence, devoting himself to the preparation and sale of
preserved olives. The olives preserved according to his process are
called “olives a la Picholine”. Previous to his time the preparation in
southern France consisted of crushing the olives lightly, immersing in
clear water, which was renewed each day for about nine days, then
preserving in brine. This latter process is still employed for the
olives in which appearance is not an asset. For the more carefully
prepared ones, the method was to pick by hand when the olives had
attained full development, then they were carefully sorted, and immersed
in lye, the duration in the lye depending on the size of the fruit, and
the concentration of the lye. They were removed from the lye when the
flesh was penetrated to, and readily detached from, the stone.
There are many variations of the lye treatment. In the olive countries
the preparation is done in the homes as well as in factories, and it is
in the homes, naturally, that the greatest variations occur. Lime is
often used with the ashes, one formula consisting of the olives mixed
with a paste of wood ashes and freshly slaked lime. In the ordinary
methods, however, a solution is made of the sifted ashes and lime,
sometimes sodium carbonate taking the place of the ashes. In the
ordinary factory preparations both ashes and lime are omitted, and
either caustic soda or potash used. When removed from the lye, the
olives are put in clear water, changed night and morning for three or
four days, then put in brine.
The early accounts of olive preparation show quite conclusively that
great variation in strength of the caustic solution was inevitable, but
fortunately the tendency to err was on the weaker side. It was not until
the modern introduction of caustic preparations of soda and potash that
standardization of the process was possible. Even with this possibility
the practise remains largely empirical and is based upon the experience
of the operator. Some still adhere to the use of weak solutions, taking
considerable time to act upon the olive, whereas others use relatively
strong solutions so as to hasten the process.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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