The brine used has been subject to quite as marked variation as the lye.
A weak brine has been used in order to encourage the natural
fermentation of the fruit, which corresponds to the fermentation in our
cucumber pickles. The other extreme is represented by the use of a very
strong brine which practically inhibited all fermentative change and
this same brine was filtered and used a succeeding season. Every
gradation between these extremes has been in common use. As might be
expected, more or less of the fruit softened and underwent changes which
at present would be regarded as decomposition or rotting rather than as
clean, normal fermentation. The esthetic side of olive preparation has
not always been of the highest order, though, as in the case of many
other foods, very great improvement has been wrought in recent years.
Even with the later methods the use of aromatic substances has not been
abandoned, and many of these are used, such as bay leaves, cloves,
coriander, cumin, mint, orange skin, fennel, etc., the amounts and
combinations varying greatly. Sometimes the aromatics are first
extracted, the solution concentrated, and a quantity of this solution
added to the brine, or they are boiled in the brine at the start, then
removed, and when the brine is cooled, it is ready for use.
In Spain the ripe olives are not treated ordinarily with lye, but by the
slower process of soaking in water. The black olives, gathered late in
the year, are cured in a salt brine to which black pepper is added.
After the bitterness is removed, they are preserved in oil.
A process used at present for ripe olives which is very simple but
effective, is to mix fine salt with them after they have been cleaned
and sorted. They are stirred twice a day, and through the osmotic action
of the salt, a dark-colored juice is exuded which contains, among other
constituents, the substance causing the bitterness. To hasten the action
the olives are pierced with a needle. The Spaniards vary this method by
adding aromatics, as wild marjoram, thyme, fennel seed, anise seed,
garlic, laurel leaves, etc., at the same time as the salt. The special
spice mixtures are held as trade secrets by the manufacturers.
When the bitterness has been removed, the olives are washed, dried
lightly, and placed in casks or jars until required. Before being served
the olives are soaked in oil.
One style of Greek packing of ripe olives is of special excellence. Sour
wine is added to the pickle to accentuate the flavor and the product is
packed in oil. The olives are plump, tender, and brilliant, and possess
a very rich flavor.
In parts of Southern Europe certain kinds of olives are left on the
trees to become very ripe, and are then dried in the sun without any
preparation. These are only used locally as they are lacking in the fine
flavor of the prepared olive.
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