In the preparation of the olive, both green and ripe, during all these
centuries, there had been no attempt at sterilization. The olive was
preserved by partial drying, by the action of salt, and by its
spontaneous fermentation in pickle in which certain desirable forms of
organisms had the ascendency. With the good fruit thus prepared, there
must have been considerable which was spoiled, and yet no illness is
known to have resulted.
Though olives have figured so largely in the alimentation of southern
Europe, the oil particularly being so important and general a food, the
people of northern Europe have not esteemed either to an important
extent. With the crude methods in vogue for transporting the oil, and
the lack of understanding as to its nature, it is supposed that their
apathetic attitude was due to its being received in poor condition.
In England also, though so close to the olive growing districts, the
olive has not been used to any considerable extent, judging from its
absence from menus and from their cookery. In examining old cookery
books it was surprising to find no mention of olives. In Russel’s “Boke
of Nurture” and Mrs. Napier’s “Noble Boke off Cookry” the manuscripts
dating from the 15th century, there is no mention of olives, though
there are condiments and spices from foreign countries used in sauces
and other preparations. Neither is there any mention of olives in “The
Closet of Sir Kenelm Digby Opened” written in the 17th century, though
Digby had traveled much and lived on the continent. The earliest mention
in 17 cookery books, published in the 17th and 18th centuries is the
following, published in 1745, and which is really a translation of a
French work by L. Lemery, physician to the King, and member of the Royal
Academy. It is interesting in showing the many virtues attributed to
olives.
=“OF OLIVES”=
“You ought to chuse such as are large, pulpy, well preserv’d and
tasted, and those that have been cultivated in hot Countries.
They create an Appetite, fortify the Stomach, dissolve and expell
the viscous and gross Humours fix’d there, repress Reachings, and
are a little nourishing.
They produce no ill Effects, unless they are us’d to excess.
They contain much Oil, Phlegm, and essential Salt.
They agree in cold Weather with any Sort of Age and Constitution,
provided they are good, and well preserv’d.”
=Remarks=
“_Olives_ are oblong or oval and juicy Fruits, larger or smaller,
according to the Country they grow in: Care must be taken to gather
them before they are ripe, and then they have a harsh bitter Taste not
to be endured, because their salts are clogg’d and swallow’d up by the
earthy and gross Parts.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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