Natural history -- Scotland -- Orkney; Orkney (Scotland) -- Description and travel; Orkney (Scotland) -- History
A north-westerly course now brings us to Pierowall in Westray, our last
port of call. The long, low island guarding it on the north-east, fertile
and well cultivated, is Papa Westray. Towards its south end is a small
lake, on a holm in which are the ruins of a chapel dedicated to St.
Tredwall, a place of great sanctity in former days, and a special shrine
for such pilgrims as suffered from sore eyes. Long after the Reformation,
indeed, we are told that the minister of the island had much difficulty
in preventing his flock from resorting thither to pay their devotions to
the saint before assembling in the church.
[Illustration: _Noup Head Lighthouse._]
The chief point of interest in Westray is Noltland Castle, now roofless
indeed, but scarcely yet a ruin. It was built early in the fifteenth
century by Bishop Tulloch, and afterwards passed into the hands of
Sir Gilbert Balfour, Master of the Household to Mary Queen of Scots.
After the escape of the unfortunate queen from Lochleven Castle, he was
ordered to prepare Noltland for her reception. Had the ill-fated Mary
turned northwards instead of southwards when the day went against her
at Langside, and had she sought shelter among these northern islands
instead of trusting to the tender mercies of her cousin and rival, Queen
Elizabeth, what a romantic chapter might have been added to the history
of Orkney!
[Illustration: _North Ronaldsay Lighthouse._]
Westray contains much good arable land, and supports a large population.
On the west side the scenery is bold and romantic; and from Fitty Hill,
which is over five hundred and fifty feet in height, the view extends
to Foula in Shetland and the Fair Isle. The cliffs facing the Atlantic
are lofty and picturesque. About a mile south of Noup Head, the western
extremity of the island, is the Gentlemen’s Cave, where five Orcadian
adherents of “Prince Charlie” are said to have found shelter for several
months after the “’Forty-five.”
From Fitty Hill we may obtain a distant view of North Ronaldsay, the
most northerly and perhaps the most verdant island of the group.
Separated from its nearest neighbour, Sanday, by the wild and stormy
North Ronaldsay Firth, the crossing of which in the usual open boat is
often dangerous, even when possible, this island impresses the visitor as
being very much cut off from the world. But in such matters all depends
upon comparison, and doubtless there are many who regard the whole of our
islands as similarly remote and inaccessible.
A stone dyke surrounds the island of North Ronaldsay, outside which a
number of native sheep pick up a living on the “banks” and even in the
“ebb.” On the most northerly point, near Dennis Head, stands one of the
finest of our lighthouses; for North Ronaldsay, like Sanday, has been the
scene of many a shipwreck.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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