The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
Some eastern nations were impressed with such deep veneration for this
bird that they swore by nothing else.[XVII-56] The Britons honoured it,
and forbad all persons to do it the least harm.[XVII-57] It remained for
Queen Elizabeth to prove, at her joyous dinners of the 29th September,
that tastes and usages are modified by time.[XVII-58] And moreover, many
centuries before, her ancestors had been greatly wanting in respect
towards a particular kind of goose, which they roasted without any
ceremony.[XVII-59] A well-deserved sentiment of gratitude rendered them
dear to the Romans: their noisy clamour had formerly saved the
Capitol.[XVII-60] They became for them, as for the Egyptians,[XVII-61] a
symbol of safety, and were reared, both in town and country, to guard
the houses.[XVII-62]
Those which were kept, out of gratitude, in the Capitol, were
consecrated to Juno, Isis, Mars, and Priapus,[XVII-63] and every year
one of them was chosen for the brilliant and solemn ceremony we have
already mentioned.[XVII-64]
But, alas! time obscures and effaces all the glories of this world; and
that of the Roman geese, no doubt, had to submit to this sad
fate,[XVII-65] for they were eaten at least a century before the time of
Pliny. Unfortunate bird! Yes, a perfidious art fed them delicately in
the shade, in convenient aviaries, where nothing was wanting for their
comfort, and at the end of a few days the poor victims made but one step
from this dangerous retreat to the place of execution.[XVII-66] The
Emperor Alexander Severus became so fond of this dish, that on his great
festival days they served him with a goose and a pheasant.[XVII-67]
Nothing, in his estimation, could equal the exquisite flavour of these
two birds.
The luxurious Romans, however, neglected the entire animal, and thought
only of the liver. They invented the art of fattening this viscera, and
of increasing its size to such an extent that it often weighed two
pounds. To obtain this result, they simply fed their victims of
sensuality, during twenty days, with a paste of dried figs and
water.[XVII-68] As soon as the goose was killed, the liver was put to
soak in milk and honey.
It is not known exactly to whom we are to attribute this gastronomic
discovery. Scipio, Metellus, and Marcus Sejus disputed the glory of the
invention.[XVII-69] At all events, it is certain that the same method
was used in Greece as in Italy; that white geese were chosen in
preference,[XVII-70] and that the fat livers were served roasted, or
fried in the frying-pan, and enveloped in the _omentum_, a membrane
which we term the caul.[XVII-71] Pliny assures us that Apicius found
means to increase livers to a monstrous size,[XVII-72] which almost
equalled in weight the whole body of the animal.[XVII-73]
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