The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
The Emperor Alexander Severus eat a hare at each of his repasts.[XIX-98]
Perhaps that prince shared the opinion of the Romans, who thought that a
person who fed on hare for seven consectutive days became fresher,
fatter, and more beautiful. A lady, named Gellia, had a large share of
that unfortunate gift of nature which we call ugliness. She resolved to
make a trial of this regimen, and submitted to it with a regularity
really exemplary. She showed herself at the end of the week, and we are
informed that no one thought her any the prettier for it.[XIX-99]
The epicures of Rome contented themselves with eating the shoulder of
the hare, and left the remainder to less fastidious guests.[XIX-100]
THE RABBIT.
“The conies are but feeble folks, yet make they their houses in the
rocks.”[XIX-101] They taught mankind, it is said, the art of
fortification, mining, and covered roads.[XIX-102] These skilful
engineers come originally from warm climates; from Africa, perhaps,
whence they were brought to Spain.
They there became so numerous, and dug so well their holes beneath the
houses of Tarragona, that that city was completely overthrown, and the
greater part of the inhabitants buried beneath its ruins.[XIX-103]
Catullus calls Spain _Cuniculosa Celtiberia_ (Celtiberian rabbit
warren); and two medals, struck in the reign of Adrian, represent that
peninsula under the form of a beautiful woman, clothed in a robe and
mantle, with a rabbit at her feet. This animal was called in Hebrew,
_Saphan_, of which the Phœnicians have made _Spania_, and the Latins
_Hispania_.[XIX-104]
Strabo relates that the inhabitants of the Balearic Islands, despairing
of being able to oppose the extraordinary propagation of rabbits, which
nearly rendered their country uninhabitable, sent ambassadors to Rome to
implore assistance against this new kind of enemy.[XIX-105] Augustus
furnished them with troops, and the Roman arms were once more
victorious.[XIX-106]
Aristotle says nothing of the rabbit, which, probably, was then little
known in Greece. It afterwards became common enough, and that of
Macedonia, in particular, found favour at tables renowned for
delicacies.[XIX-107]
The Romans, those bold innovators in cookery, so desirous of strange and
unheard of dishes, would only consent to eat rabbits on condition of
their being killed before they had left off sucking, or taken alive from
the slaughtered mother, to be immediately transferred to the ardent
stoves of their kitchens.[XIX-108] It was certainly reserved for that
people to frighten the world by all kinds of culinary anomalies.
THE FOX.
A young fox, fattened on grapes, and roasted on the spit, is a tidbit
for a king during the autumn.[XIX-109] Such was the idea of the Roman
peasants; but we must be allowed, however, to differ from their opinion.
THE HEDGEHOG.
The Greeks willingly eat the hedgehog[XIX-110] in a _ragoût_--a dish the
Romans never envied them.
THE SQUIRREL.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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