The haddock, like the sturgeon, was surrounded with the ridiculous honours of an almost divine pomp.[XXI-189] It was served interwoven with garlands, and trumpeters accompanied the slaves who, with uncovered heads and foreheads crowned with flowers, brought to the guests this dish, the merit of which was, perhaps, exaggerated by capricious fancies.[XXI-190] TENCH. Ausonius, who lived in the 4th century of the Christian era, is the first who has spoken of the tench, in his poem of the “_Mostella_.”[XXI-191] It was abandoned to the common people, who alone feasted on it.[XXI-192] This fish, long the victim of an unjust disdain, ultimately conquered from the great that esteem which they at first refused to it. DRAGON WEAVER. The dragon weaver traversed unseen the long and brilliant gastronomic period of the Romans. Greece rendered it more justice;[XXI-193] but its too modest qualities were not able to preserve it from forgetfulness and indifference. LOLIGO. At Rome the loligo, a species of cuttle-fish, was sometimes served with pepper and rue, mixed with garum, honey, sweet wine boiled, and a few drops of oil.[XXI-194] SOLE. This fish, which the Greeks caught on the coast,[XXI-195] was much sought after on account of the delicacy of its nourishing and light flesh.[XXI-196] The flounder, the brill, the diamond and Dutch plaice, which, together with the sole, were known under the general name of _passeres_, enjoyed an equal esteem, and had attributed to them the same qualities. ANGEL-FISH. In Holland there are angel fish of enormous size;[XXI-197] and Aldrovandus relates that some have been seen which weighed as much as 160 lbs.[XXI-198] In the time of this naturalist the common people did not eat them very willingly. FILE-FISH. The flesh of this species of the _bulistes_ is only good when fried, according to Marcgrave. Columella thinks much of it,[XXI-199] and Pliny ranks it among the _saxatiles_, the most esteemed by connoisseurs.[XXI-200] PILCHARD. Among the Greeks this fish was considered only as fit for the people. Those from the environs of Phaleres were much esteemed, when left only an instant in boiling oil.[XXI-201] The Romans, who gave them the first rank among salt fish,[XXI-202] stuffed them, in order to render them better, in the following manner:--[XXI-203] They bruised pennyroyal, cummin, pepper, mint, and pine nuts; these they mixed with honey, and with this paste they filled the anchovy, after having carefully boned them. They then wrapped them in paper,[M] and cooked them in a _bain-marie_, or saucepan, immersed in boiling water. They were served with oil, dregs of fish-brine, and cooked wine.[XXI-204] LOACH. The Greeks liked loaches,[XXI-205] but many abstained from eating them, lest the Syrian goddess, the protectress of these fishes, should gnaw their legs, cover their bodies with ulcers, and devour their liver.[XXI-206]