The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
The Greeks and Latins speak with admiration of the enormous size of
certain tortoises in their time, the whole species of which were
comprised under the generic word _testudo_.[XXI-252] The Indian Sea
produced some so large, that the shell of one only amply served to roof
a comfortable and elegant cottage.[XXI-253] The inhabitants of the
shores of the Red Sea never troubled themselves with building sloops;
large shells of tortoises spared them the trouble, by supplying them
with charming little barks, which lightly floated on the water.[XXI-254]
And, lastly, in the Ganges, tortoise shells were found, capable of
containing no less than 20 _amphoræ_, or about 560 pints.[XXI-255]
The inhabitants of the Peloponnesus did the tortoise the signal honour
of representing its image on their money.[XXI-256] The blood cured
diseases of the eye,[XXI-257] and the flesh--in great request--was
thought excellent eating. It was cut into pieces of a middling size, and
placed in a saucepan with pepper, rue, and scallions, crushed in the
same mortar; over this was poured honey, garum, raisin wine, common
wine, and a small quantity of good oil. At the moment of ebullition, the
whole was thickened with flour.[XXI-258]
Sometimes the tortoise was boiled, and covered with a seasoning, for
which the following is the recipe:--
Mix pepper, alisander, parsley, mint, and wild marjoram, with the yolks
of eggs, honey, garum, wine, cooked wine, and oil; add mustard and
vinegar.[XXI-259]
SEA-CRAWFISH.
Apicius sought relief from his culinary studies at Minturnus, in
Campania, where that great master regaled himself with delicious
sea-crawfish, in order to keep up his gustatory powers. Genius reposes
amidst studious leisure. Being told that Africa produced some of these
_testacea_ of an immense size, immediately the worthy Roman tears
himself away from the sweet solitude he had created; he freights a
vessel, Æolus smiles on the undertaking, Neptune protects him, and he
arrives in sight of the African shore. Scarcely was he disembarked when
some fishermen brought him a few sea-crawfish; he examines, rejects
them, and demands finer ones to be brought. He is informed that it will
be impossible to procure any larger than those before him. At this
Apicius smiles disdainfully, and commanding the presence of his pilot,
orders him to steer back for Italy.[XXI-260] Decidedly magiric genius
never revealed itself by a more sublime action.
However, Pliny somewhere mentions certain magnificent sea-crawfish,
which he describes as being four cubits in length[XXI-261]--very large
ones, certainly.
Roman tables often presented to the sight of guests boiled sea-crawfish,
peppered and garnished with asparagus,[XXI-262] but they were generally
covered with a gravy composed of honey, vinegar, wine, garum, oil, and
cooked wine; to which were added scallions, chopped small, pepper,
alisander, carrots, cummin, and dates. Mustard was then mixed with the
whole.[XXI-263]
LOBSTER.
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