The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
The Greeks called the shrimp _garos_, the Romans _garus_: it may hence
be supposed that garum had originally for basis the flesh of shrimps, if
Pliny had not taken the trouble to inform us of the fact.[XXIII-19] It
was afterwards composed of other fish, but it always retained the name
which recalled its origin.[XXIII-20] In like manner the signification of
certain words is now applied to things quite different from the original
type: chicory, or succory, is received under the mask of coffee: a
certain pottage boldly usurps the honours due exclusively to turtle
soup. Nothing more easy than to multiply these examples of catachreses:
there are few figures which have become so common.
Well, then, they macerated the intestines of fish in water, saturated
with salt, until putrefaction began to show itself; they then added
parsley and vinegar.[XXIII-21]
A thick garum was also frequently obtained, by allowing the entrails and
other parts, generally thrown away, to liquefy in salt.[XXIII-22]
In the time of Pliny, mackerel[XXIII-23] was preferred, of which they
employed either the gills and intestines, or only the blood, directly
the fish left the water,[XXIII-24] and while yet living. They thus
obtained a precious liquid, and which the care necessary for its
production rendered so dear, that eight pints of it cost no less than
from fifteen to twenty pounds.[XXIII-25]
This expensive garum was especially esteemed when it came from Spain: it
was then called “garum of the allies”--_garum sociorum_--because it was
received from a nation allied with the Romans;[XXIII-26] or, again,
perhaps in allusion to the “band of gluttons,” of Rome, a sort of
fraternity of free-livers, who made great use of it.[XXIII-27]
The blood and entrails of the tunny fish, mixed with salt in a vase,
produced also a most elaborate garum. A hole was made in the vessel at
the expiration of two months, and the rich seasoning flowed from
it.[XXIII-28]
This brine became exquisite, and obtained an exorbitant price when made
from the liver of anchovies macerated in vinegar, pepper, salt, parsley,
garlic, white wine, and sweet herbs.[XXIII-29] But Apicius attained at
the first step the apogee of refinement of the most sensual gluttony, by
inventing garum made from the liver of red mullet.[XXIII-30] What we
have already said elsewhere with regard to this fish will enable the
reader to appreciate the value of this new preparation.
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