The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
Amateurs who were more economical contented themselves with very little
saxatile fishes,[XXIII-31] of which only the intestines were taken, or
which were thrown whole into a vase with a great quantity of salt. These
were exposed to the sun, and the mixture long and often stirred. When
heat had caused fermentation, and the vessel contained only a kind of
pulp, or paste, almost liquid, a kind of willow basket was introduced,
into which the garum alone could penetrate. The thick part--the dregs
which remained at the bottom of the vase--was termed _alec_.[XXIII-32]
The following method was also frequently adopted:--
Mackerel, or small fish, were placed in a small vase with a large
quantity of salt; this was well stirred, and the mixture was then left
quiet all night. The next day it was transferred into an earthen pot,
which remained uncovered in the sun. At the end of two or three months,
it was hermetically closed, after having added a quantity of old wine
equal to one-third of the mixture.[XXIII-33]
When it was wished to obtain garum without waiting any length of time,
they took brine, carefully filtered, and so saturated with salt that an
egg would float on it; this was placed with the fish in a new saucepan;
wild marjoram was added, and the whole boiled over a gentle fire, until
the fish was entirely dissolved. Then wine, reduced to two-thirds by
boiling, was added. It was left to get cold; the liquid was several
times filtered, till it became quite clear, and was then finally placed
in an uncovered vase.[XXIII-34]
Although fish was generally used, the flesh of several animals was
sometimes employed in the formation of garum.[XXIII-35] It was, however,
submitted to the same preparations as those already mentioned.
Such was this wonderful seasoning, forming the chief delight of the
ancients, whose praises poets have sung, and the composition of which
formerly exercised the singularly mad intelligence of Maître François
Rabelais. The reader will doubtless remark, that the principal elements
of garum are almost invariably the same: fish, salt, and a greater or
less fermentation. But perhaps some one may exclaim: “This must be
detestable!” No doubt, but then no one ever thought of regaling himself
with this liquid; it was never taken alone; it was but reserved as a
seasoning for a host of dishes, in order to heighten their flavour.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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