The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
It must also be observed, that a skilful cook always took care to
modify the garum before he sent it to table, by the help of various
ingredients, such as pepper, vinegar, Falernian wine,[XXIII-36] water,
and oil,[XXIII-37] according to the use to which it was destined, or the
degree of strength it was expedient it should possess. Hence that
variety of seasonings with garum,--sweet,[XXIII-38] sharp, mixed with
water, wine, vinegar, and many other substances which changed or
corrected the acid flavour of the primitive condiment,[XXIII-39] though
without in the least depriving it of the qualities which fermentation
had communicated to it.
It results from the different citations of which this chapter is
composed, that recipes for the making of garum are to be obtained more
easily than people seem to think at the present time. Everyone may not
be of the same opinion with regard to the kind of fish generally used by
the ancients to obtain this liquid, although all difficulties would be
removed by admitting--which certainly is nothing but right--that they
chose at one time mackerel or tunny fish; at others, gudgeons and small
sardines; sometimes even the red mullet, in spite of its rarity and
price. But it is evident that garum was prepared by either dissolving
and liquefying these fish in their brine, either whole, their
intestines, or their liver, and that, to effect this, it was only
necessary to expose to the sun the vessel containing them; or that they
simply put small fish into a dish, with vinegar and parsley, placed it
on a charcoal fire, and stirred it for some time, when it was wanted for
immediate use.
It must have been remarked in reading this work, that Apicius very
frequently employs garum; he places it in every sauce, but never makes
use of this seasoning unmixed, never does he serve it by itself as a
special dish. This celebrated gastronomist has bequeathed us the recipe
for a digestive garum. It is as follows:--
Mix with some honey, half an ounce of pepper, three scruples of
eschalots, six scruples of cardamum, one scruple of spikenard, and six
scruples of mint; add vinegar to this mixture, and then pour in some
garum.[XXIII-40]
The _Hypotrimma_, or stomachic condiment, of the same master, merits
also our attention:--Mix carefully some pepper, benzoin, mint,
pine-nuts, dried raisins, and dates, with fresh (not salt) cheese,
vinegar, oil, honey, and wine, reduced by boiling to one half; add garum
to this mixture.[XXIII-41]
The _Moretaria_ appears to be a variety of the Hypotrimma; it is a
mixture of mint, rue, coriander, fennel, the whole fresh, with benzoin,
pepper, honey, and vinegar; to this, garum is added.[XXIII-42]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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