The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
Poultry is stuffed with them, also geese’s livers, pies, and cooked
pork, besides numerous _ragoûts_. They possess, it is said, exciting
virtues.
MUSHROOMS.
Agrippina, desirous of securing the crown to her worthy son, Nero, went
to a celebrated female poisoner, and procured a venomous preparation
which defied the most powerful antidotes.[XXIII-110] The Princess
slipped this terrible poison in a very fine _morel_ (a species of
mushroom), which Claudius eat at his supper. The unfortunate Emperor
died according to the desire of his amiable consort, who was, of course,
inconsolable for a long time, and placed among the gods the husband she
had murdered.[XXIII-111] Nero ascended the throne, and every time that
mushrooms were served at his table, true to the memory of his
father-in-law, he facetiously called this preparation the “dish of the
gods.”[XXIII-112]
To the poisonous effects of this vegetable have been attributed, also,
the death of the Emperor Tiberius, that of Pope Clement VII., King
Charles VI. of France, and many other important personages, who either
knew very little of good cooks, or of _morels_. Notwithstanding these
tragical events, mushrooms always retained a proud position, among the
ancients, above the most inoffensive culinary plants; and their rather
doubtful reputation has not prevented them from maintaining their ground
down to our time, for we find that they now claim the same rank which
they formerly occupied in the gastronomic _réunions_ of Athens and Rome:
a sad image of those fortunate criminals, whom society dreads, and yet
often loads with its favours.
This “voluptuous poison,” as Seneca, the philosopher,[XXIII-113] calls
it, which compels us to eat of it again, even when not
hungry,[XXIII-114] was much relished by the wealthy inhabitants of Rome
and Italy. These free-livers, careless of the morrow, preferred the
field mushroom,[XXIII-115] which they devoured with delight, having
previously covered it over with a pungent sauce, which they afterwards
neutralized with various iced beverages.[XXIII-116] It is true that this
dish, worthy of the gods, often inflicted a severe penalty on those who
yielded to its irresistible seduction; but what mortal could think of
the anguish of an uncertain poisoning, when he had the good luck to meet
with some _boleti_, or mushrooms, of the rarest description, which the
price of a beautiful toga would hardly have purchased,[XXIII-117] and
which promised some mouthfuls of ineffable, although ephemeral
enjoyment? Besides, does not pleasure possess more piquant charms when
danger is attached to it? The greater part of mushrooms are very
dangerous, say the ancients;[XXIII-118] but blind destiny, perhaps,
reserves for us certain kinds which are not so. Re-assured by this
judicious reflection, they gave orders to their cooks to stew
some,[XXIII-119] and season them with vinegar, oxymel, and
honey.[XXIII-120]
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