The Pearl, its story, its charm, and its valueCattelle, Wallis Richard
History
The Pearl, its story, its charm, and its value
Cattelle, Wallis Richard
Pearls
Many large pearls of pear, egg, or drop shape, and some round, are used
as pendants, to be hung on slender gold neck chains, or suspended from
brooches of diamonds. They are bored at the smaller end to a depth of
about one-eighth of an inch, the hole is filled with a composition
which hardens rapidly, and in this a gold wire, looped at one end for
connecting, is inserted. Formerly the pearl was drilled quite through
and the suspending wire riveted, but this is rarely done now as it
lessens the value of the pearl and destroys the perfect pendant effect.
This is a European fashion. The Chinese mount pearls by boring into
the body of the pearl at two, three or four points and inserting the
bent ends of spreading wires so that the gem is clasped as by spreading
finger tips.
Pear-shaped pearls were used in Rome for pendant purposes as now and
were known as "elenchi." After the Roman fashion of "crotalia" or
"castanet" eardrops had passed, drop pearls continued in more or less
favor throughout succeeding centuries as eardrops, the matching of one
nearly doubling the value of both. Of late, egg and pear-shaped pearls
have been used largely as heads for scarf pins. They are drilled and
set on a gold wire or "pegged" as it is called, in the manner described
for pendants but with the smaller end resting upon a light gold ring
soldered to the scarf pin, or in a small cup, so that the pressure,
while inserting the pin, is distributed over the body of the pearl and
upon the end, instead of upon the inner wall in contact with the end of
the pin.
The Persians used pearls largely in the jewelling of royal headgear,
for Pompey is said to have brought home twenty crowns of pearls with
the loot from his eastern raid. Hindu princes strung them on straight
wires of equal length and bound a number of them together, to be
fastened as pompons or aigrettes, to their turbans. They encrusted and
edged their robes with them as also did the royalties and nobles of
Europe during the middle ages. Seed pearls were strung in lengths of
four to six feet and the strands twisted together like a rope. This
fashion continues to this day, such ropes of pearls sometimes measuring
five feet in length.
The semi-barbarous Indian tribes of America did not confine the use
of pearls altogether to personal adornment. They decorated their
idols, state canoes, the handles of the paddles, and the figures in
their temples with them, and they buried enormous quantities in the
sepulchres with their dead. There is no evidence that this latter form
of extravagance was at any time general in Asia or Europe, but Julius
Cæsar made a buckler of British pearls which he hung up in the temple
of Venus Genetrix after dedicating it to her.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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