The Pearl, its story, its charm, and its valueCattelle, Wallis Richard
History
The Pearl, its story, its charm, and its value
Cattelle, Wallis Richard
Pearls
Among the ancients it does not appear that pearls were used in
connection with the precious metals to a great extent. Collars of gold
and silver with large pearls as pendants were sometimes seen upon the
necks of Indians by the Spaniards when they landed on this continent,
but in Asia, Africa, and upon their first introduction into Europe,
pearls were not used with the metals as freely as other gems. As the
art of the jeweller developed however, they came into more general
use and are now utilized with gold in every form of jewelry. Round
and button pearls with diamonds or other stones, or alone, are set in
gold as brooches, ear-rings, finger-rings, bracelets, hair-ornaments,
scarf-pins, dress-pins, studs, cuff and dress buttons, etc., and
baroques are also used for the same purposes. Brooches, lockets and
pendants are paved with solid masses of half pearls.
Some ancient swords of Hindu warriors betray a curious custom. A groove
with over-lapping edges was sunk in the blade and into this pearls were
introduced from the hilt end to represent the tears of enemies. There
are blades so constructed in the collection of Indian swords presented
to King Edward of England when, as the Prince of Wales, he visited
India.
Jewellers frequently avail themselves of the odd shapes in which
baroques occur to construct unique jewels. Nature frequently gives them
a resemblance to animals, and sometimes to the human figure and face,
which may be accentuated by the jeweller's art so as to make the
resemblance striking. In one notable instance lately, a baroque was
so mounted that it might easily pass as a modelled portrait of Queen
Victoria. Baroques resembling bird's wings are common and are often
made effective by mounting them on a bird of gold. Others remind one
of fish, birds, insects, and beasts of various kinds. Clustered pearls
enveloped together sometimes look like dog's heads, in which two of
the enveloped pearls near the surface pass for eyes. Long, slender
baroques are set to resemble the petals of a chrysanthemum, and others,
mounted singly in sepals of gold, are suggestive of the buds of various
flowers, roses, lilies, etc.
[Illustration: VARYING FORMS OF PEARLS
1-5 Abalone Baroques. 6 Blister. 7-10 Twinned Pearls. 11-21 Baroques.
22-29 Round Baroques. 30-31 Wing Pearls. 32-35 Button Pearls. 36-37
Colored Round Pearls. 38-41 White Round Pearls. 42 Jockey Cap.]
Round and button pearls are used extensively now, and have been at
various periods formerly, as centres for circles, or "clusters" of
diamonds mounted as scarf-pins, finger-rings and formerly, when they
were worn, as ear-rings. The pearls are sometimes drilled and set on
a peg; sometimes they are held by claws or prongs as the diamonds
surrounding them are.
Pearls are very generally used now as studs by men for evening dress,
usually mounted on pegs so as to avoid the display of any gold.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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