The Pearl, its story, its charm, and its valueCattelle, Wallis Richard
History
The Pearl, its story, its charm, and its value
Cattelle, Wallis Richard
Pearls
The "blue" pearls, or "Panama" pearls as they are sometimes called
in the trade, must not be confounded with the blue white pearls just
mentioned. "Blue" pearls are of a dingy, slaty blue tint. They have
a dark appearance and the luster is seldom good. As many of this
character are found in the Panama waters such pearls are often sold as
"Panama" pearls. They are even less desirable than those which are
decidedly yellow, though persons of a little knowledge will often buy
them in preference to others which are better, because they are not
yellow and are cheap.
"Fancies" include all decided colors, or those having a rare and
beautiful tint. Yellow pearls as generally found are not classed among
them because the color is not fine, but dark,—"brackish" one might term
it. A clean buttercup yellow, or an orange yellow, would be "fancy"
however. On the other hand a deep pink is seldom fine as the color is
then almost invariably muddy, whereas the clean delicate light pink
pearls are rare and highly esteemed. A clear grass green is never seen
but the color occurs in very beautiful bronze and peacock shadings.
Various shades of blue, rose, copper, and red with bronze effects, and
black are included in this classification.
Black pearls are much prized, and the term covers a wide range of
dark shades of gray, slate, brown and red. The ideal color however
is sufficiently deep to be, as the name indicates, black, though it
has not the metallic appearance of hematite, nor the polished shine
of the black clam pearl. Black pearls having a bronze effect are
open to suspicion, especially if they are pierced, as many of them
are artificially colored and are liable to fade. Such pearls have a
somewhat metallic appearance, are seldom very lustrous, and if there
is a rough chalky place in the skin it will be blacker there than
elsewhere.
It is difficult to give rules by which to judge color, but there is
a quality which can only be described as "clean." It is free from
muddiness and is desirable in pearls as in all other gems.
The proportion of fancy colors is greater in fresh-water pearls than in
the orientals. In the United States the fisheries which have yielded
the finest "fancies" are those of Wisconsin, Kentucky and Tennessee. Of
sea pearls, most of the fine black ones come from the coasts of Mexico.
Beautiful colored pearls are found in fisheries of the Oceanic Islands,
for instance at the Isles of New Caledonia and Gambier, and in China
and Japan.
To make close comparisons of color in pearls, place them on white
cotton under or opposite a strong natural light. To judge shape and
luster, roll them on black cloth. These are the most trying conditions
and it should be remembered by those who test them thus, that no
position as jewels when worn can be so unfavorable or trying.
IMPERFECTIONS
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