The Personality of American CitiesHungerford, Edward
History
The Personality of American Cities
Hungerford, Edward
Cities and towns -- United States; United States -- Description and travel; United States -- Social life and customs -- 1865-1918
Tea for you is being served in a large mausoleum of a white
hotel--excessively white from a profuse use of porcelain tiles which can
be washed occasionally--of most extraordinary architecture. Some day
some one is going to attempt an analysis of hotel architecture in New
York and elsewhere in the U.S.A. but this is not the time and place.
Suffice it to say here and now that you finally found a door entering
the white porcelain mausoleum. What a feast awaited your eyes--as well
as your stomach--within. Rooms of rose pink and rooms of silver gray,
Persian rooms, Japanese rooms, French rooms in the several varieties of
Louis, Greek rooms--Europe, the ancients and the Orient, have been
ransacked for the furnishing of this tavern. And in the center of them
all is a great glass-enclosed garden, filled with giant palms and tiny
tables, tremendous waiters and infinitesimal chairs. A large bland-faced
employé--who is a sort of sublimated edition of the narrow lean hat-boys
who we shall find in the eating places of the Broadway theater
districts--divests you of your outer wraps. You elbow past a band and
arrive at the winter garden. A head waiter in an instant glance of
steel-blue eyes decides that you are fit and finds the tiniest of the
tiny tables for you. It is so far in the shade of the sheltering palm
that you have to bend almost double to drink your tea--and the orchestra
is rather uncomfortably near.
[Illustration: Washington Square and its lovely Arch--New York]
Katherine might have taken you to other tea dispensaries--an unusual
place in a converted stable in Thirty-fourth street, another stable loft
in West Twenty-eighth--dozens of little shops, generally feminine to
an intensified degree, which combine the serving of tea with the
vending of their wares. But she preferred the big white hotel.
"Tea at the Plaza is so satisfactory and so restful," she says, as you
dodge to permit two ladies--one in gray silk and the other in a cut of
blue cloth that gives her the contour of a magnified frog--to slip past
you without knocking your tea out of your untrained fingers. "We might
have gone to the Manhattan--but it's so filled with young girls and the
chappies from the schools--the Ritz is proper but dull, so is
Sherry's--all the rest more or less impossible."
She rattles on--the matter of restaurants is always dear to the New York
heart. You ignore the details.
"But why?" you demand.
"Why what?" she returns.
"Why tea?"
You explain that afternoon tea in its real lair--London--in a sort of
climatic necessity. The prevalence of fog, of raw damp days, makes a cup
of hot tea a real bracer--a stimulant that carries the human through
another two or three hours of hard existence until the late London
dinner. The bracing atmosphere of New York--with more clear days than
any other metropolitan city in the world--does not need tea. You say so
frankly.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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