The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental Gastronomy — John Shaqi
The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental GastronomyBrillat-Savarin
Philosophy
The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental Gastronomy
Brillat-Savarin
Gastronomy
The turkey, which was our only roast dish, was charming to the
sight, flattering to the sense of smell, and delicious to taste.
Therefore, until the last fragment was eaten, there were heard
around the table, "Very good;" "Exceedingly good;" "Dear sir; what
a nice piece." [Footnote: The flesh of the wild turkey is more
highly colored and more perfumed than the domestic fowl. I am glad
to learn that my amiable colleague, M. Bosc, had killed many in
Carolina, which he found excellent, and far better than those in
Europe. He therefore recommends that they be allowed the largest
liberty, that they be driven into the woods and fields, to enhance
the flavor and bring it as nearly as possible back to the original
species.--Annales d'Agriculture cah. du 28 Fevr. 1821.] By game we
mean all wild animals which are fit to eat, and live in a state of
natural liberty.
We say fit to eat, because many animals which are in a state of
nature are not fit to eat. Such as foxes, crows, pies, wild-cats,
etc. They are called in French Betes puantes vermin.
Game is divided into three series.
The first contains all birds, from the grive to the smallest of
the feathered tribe.
The second ascends from the rail to the snipe, partridge, and
pheasant, including the rabbit and the hare; it is divided into
three categories, of the marsh, hairy, and feathered.
The third, which bears the name of venison, is composed of the
wild-boar, kid, and all other horny-footed cattle.
Game is one of the great luxuries of our tables; it is a healthy,
warm, highly-flavored and high tasted flesh, easily digested,
whenever one is hungry.
These qualities, however, are not so inherent as not to a certain
degree to depend on the skill of the cook. Put some water, salt
and beef into a pot, and you can obtain from them a very good
soup. Substitute venison for the beef, and the result will not be
fit to eat. Butcher's meat, in this respect, has the advantage.
Under the manipulation, however, of a skilful cook, game undergoes
various modifications and transformations, and furnishes the
greater portions of the dishes of the transcendental kitchen.
Game derives, also, a great portion of its value from the soil on
which it is fed. The taste of a Perigord partridge is very
different from that of one from Sologne, and the hare killed in
the vicinity of Paris is a very different dish from one shot on
the hills of Valromey or upper Dauphiny. The latter is probably
the most perfumed of all beasts.
Among small birds, beyond all doubt, the best is the "beccafico."
It becomes at least as fat as the red-throat or the ortolan, and
nature has besides given it a slight bitterness, and a peculiar
and exquisite perfume, which enables it to fill and delight all
the gustatory organs. Were the beccafico as large as a pheasant,
an acre of land would be paid for it.
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