The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental Gastronomy — John Shaqi
The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental GastronomyBrillat-Savarin
Philosophy
The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental Gastronomy
Brillat-Savarin
Gastronomy
We spoke of the war of Independence, in which Mr. Bulow [Footnote:
The M. Bulow of whom Savarin speaks, is none other than Lieut.
Col. Bellows of the Connecticut Line, many of whose relations yet
remain in the Valley of the Connecticut.] had served as a field
officer of M. de La Fayette, who every day becomes greater in the
eyes of the Americans, who always designate him as "the Marquis"
of agriculture, which at that time enriched the United States, and
finally of my native land, which I loved the more because I was
forced to leave it.
When wearied of conversation the father would say to his eldest
daughter, "Maria, give us a song." She without any embarrassment
sung the American national airs. The complaints of Mary Stuart and
of Andre, all popular in America. Maria had taken a few lessons,
and in that remote country passed for a virtuosa; her singing
though, derived its charm from the quality of her voice, which was
at once clear, fresh and accentuated.
On the next day, in spite of Mr. Bulow's persuasions, we set out.
I had duties to discharge; and while the horses were being
prepared, Mr. Bulow took me aside and used these remarkable words.
"You see in me, sir, a happy man, if there be one under heaven;
all that you see here is derived from my own property. My
stockings were knit by my daughters, and my cloths were furnished
by my flocks. They also, with my garden, furnish me with an
abundance of healthy food. The greatest eulogium of our government
is, that in the State of Connecticut there are a thousand farmers
as well satisfied as I am, the doors of whom have no locks.
"Taxes are almost nothing, and as long as they be paid any one can
sleep calmly. Congress favors national industry as much as it can,
and merchants are always ready to take from us whatever we wish to
sell. I have ready money for a long time, for I have just sold at
twenty-four dollars a barrel, flour I usually receive eight for.
"All this is derived from the liberty we have acquired, and
established on good laws. I am master of my own house; and you
will not be astonished when you know that we never fear the sound
of the drum, and, except on the 4th of July, the glorious
anniversary of our Independence, neither soldiers, uniforms, nor
bayonets are seen."
On my way back I seemed absorbed by profound reflection. Perhaps
the reader may think I mused on my host's parting words; I had
very different thoughts, however, for I was studying how I should
cook my turkey. I was in some trouble, for I feared I would not
find all I needed at Hartford, and wished to make a trophy of my
spolia opima.
I make a painful sacrifice in suppressing the details of the
profound science I exhibited in the preparation of an
entertainment, to which I invited several friends. Suffice it to
say that the partridge wings were served en papillote, and the
grey squirrels stewed in madeira.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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