The pillars of Hercules : $b or, A narrative of travels in Spain and Morocco in 1848; vol. 1Urquhart, David
History
The pillars of Hercules : $b or, A narrative of travels in Spain and Morocco in 1848; vol. 1
Urquhart, David
Morocco -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
There are three elevations on the ridge, one in the centre, and one
at each extremity. That in the centre is the highest; and here is the
signal station, from which works are carried straight down to the beach
at the ragged staff. The upper part of the Rock is like a roof, and
down it, like forked lightning, runs a zig-zag wall. Below this stony
thatching there is a story or two of precipices; the line of defence
drops over them and on the works, which shut in the town on the south,
and which consist of a curtain-bastion and ditch. In the rear of this
wall (the zig-zag) there are the remains of a still more ancient one. A
great amount of labour has been expended upon this almost inaccessible
height. These zig-zag, or flanking lines, are naturally assumed to
be modern, and the wall goes by the name of Charles V., who restored
the fortification below; but the loop-holes are for cross-bows. The
diagonal steps at the landing-places, the materials and the coating, as
well as the whole aspect, show them to be Moorish. Heterodox as this
opinion was held when I first broached it, it was not impugned after
two inspections by the officers best qualified to pronounce on such a
matter.
On the north, too, all our defences are restorations of the Moorish
works: even in the galleries they have been our forerunners. Their
open works were in advance of ours, and a staircase is cut out through
the Rock down to the beach. In fact, save in what is requisite for
the application of gunpowder, or what is superfluous for defence,
the Moors had rendered Gibraltar what it is to-day. They have
even left us structures of the greatest service, as resisting the
effects of gunpowder, and such as we are able neither to rival nor
to imitate. On the great lines, in consequence of the many changes
which have taken place, the original work has been displaced, or
covered up, and especially so along the sea-wall; but, ascend to the
signal-post,--crawl out on the face of the Rock to the north,--examine
even yet Europa Point--Rozier Bay, and everywhere you find the Moor.
It is impossible to move about at Gibraltar, without having the old
tower in sight, and it is difficult to take one’s eyes off it when it
is so. No aspiring lines, no graceful sweeps, no columned terraces
exert their fascination, nor is it ruin and dilapidation that speak to
the heart. The building is plain in its aspect, mathematical in its
forms, clean in its outlines, with a sturdy and stubborn middle-aged
air, without a shade of fancy or of wildness. Nevertheless, the eye is
drawn to it, and then your thoughts are fixed on it--and they are so,
precisely because you cannot tell why.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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