The pillars of Hercules : $b or, A narrative of travels in Spain and Morocco in 1848; vol. 1Urquhart, David
History
The pillars of Hercules : $b or, A narrative of travels in Spain and Morocco in 1848; vol. 1
Urquhart, David
Morocco -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
It constitutes the apex of a triangular fort, and massy and lofty
itself, it thus assumes a station of dignity and command. The annals
of time are traced on it--here by the arrow-head still sticking,[29]
there by the hollow of the shot and shell. It has borne the brunt of
a score of sieges, and stands to-day without a single repair. On its
summit, seventy feet from the ground, guns are planted. The terrace
on the roof is cracked, but the surface is otherwise as smooth as if
just finished. The pottery-pipes fitted in to carry away the water, are
precisely such as might have been shipped from London. A semicircular
arch supports a gallery on the inner side. A window opening in this
gallery, now blocked up, is like a church window with the Gothic arch
chamfered. The exterior was plastered in fine lime, and there are
traces of its having been divided off into figures. It has now, by the
barbarians in possession, been rubbed over with dirty brown to make it
look _ancient_. The turrets on the walls below have been furbished up
to look like cruet-stands, and the staring face of a clock[30] is stuck
in a Saracen tower.
The upper story only is explored and open; the flooring is perfectly
smooth, and the roof stuccoed. There is a bath-room, and a mosque; the
former has a figured aperture slanting through ten or twelve feet of
wall to admit the light, as in the domes of Eastern baths. The other
parts of the building are as much unknown as those of the unopened
Pyramids. If these ruins had been in the hands of the tribe that live
on the rock above, there would have been exhibited at least as much
taste, and certainly more curiosity.
The standing walls adjoining the towers exhibit faces of arches that
covered in halls and surrounded courts. The second portion of the fort
is at present used as a prison. The lower enclosure is of greater
extent, and in the line of the wall is a remarkable Egyptian-looking
building, square with buttresses at the angles and a pyramidal
roof--roof and walls one mass of Moorish concrete (Tapia). It is
as perfect as it was a thousand years ago, and may be equally so a
thousand years hence. It is at present used as a powder-magazine,
and is divided into two stories. The flooring of the upper hall is
supported in the middle by a block of masonry some fifty feet square.
This apartment is curiously ventilated.
This Moorish fort is, as a whole, a building of great interest.
An architect of the last century speaks of it as one of the most
remarkable on the soil of Europe. It was no embellishment of, or
defence for a capital; it was raised in time of trouble on a remote
promontory as a protection for insurgents. It was antecedent to art in
Europe,--the people who raised it did not imitate Rome; they must have
brought this art with them. It stands a match for man and time, defying
at once the inventions of the one and the ravages of the other.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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