The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
"To fulfil the task I propose to myself," observes the author in his
preface, "it was necessary to be a physician, a physiologist, and
even more or less of a classical scholar." To these qualifications
he added those of a thorough man of the world, a natural epicure, a
keen observer, a metaphysician, and a writer unusually gifted with
style and sententiousness of expression. Impressed by his masterly
grasp of his subject, La Reynière, on reading the volume for the first
time, immediately proclaimed its supremacy, asserting that it should
open the doors of the Academy if they were to be opened by a superior
mind. Among the many recognitions of the writer's genius none is more
appreciative than that of Balzac, whose "Physiology of Marriage"
was inspired by the "Physiology of Taste." Treatises innumerable
on gastronomy have since appeared, but few are worthy of serious
consideration, the majority being more or less offensive or mere echoes
of a familiar strain.
With Savarin gastronomy became an all-absorbing enthusiasm--a prolific
vein that hitherto had been imperfectly explored. It was, above all, an
art, a potent factor in the pleasures of life, a valuable auxiliary to
health, a means of advancing the amenities of existence--a _finesse_,
in short, of which he was to be the analyst and interpreter, the La
Bruyère and the Sainte-Beuve. Like the sprightly Ninon in her letters,
who at eighty was still able to captivate and charm, Savarin might have
written of the meditations of his advanced age: "We are not indulging
in what is termed fine conversation--we are philosophising."
The reader who will look to the "Physiology" for practical directions
on cookery will be disappointed. In place of a cook-book he will find
a reflective dissertation on the æsthetics of the table, replete with
wit, humour, and anecdote; a treatise dealing more with physical
functions than the fashioning of sauces, and with the fork and
wine-glass rather than with the chef and casserole.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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