The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
The book of Esther records the magnificent royal feast at Shushan
given in the third year of his reign by the Persian king Ahasuerus: a
carnival which lasted an hundred and fourscore days--where the beds
were of gold and silver upon a pavement of red and blue and white and
black marble; where were white, green, and blue hangings, fastened with
cords of fine linen and purple to silver rings and pillars of marble;
and where the people were given to drink, in vessels of gold, of royal
wine in abundance, according to the state of the king. From the land
of Zoroaster, therefore, the Greeks received their first lessons in
gastronomy.
Simplicity in their habits was a characteristic of the early Greeks,
this simplicity extending in a marked degree to their cookery, when
the famous Spartan black broth, composed of pork-broth, vinegar, and
salt, became a national dish. But this epoch of abstention was of
comparatively short duration. The spiritual sense was overcome by
the carnal, and, imitating the Arians, they soon converted a natural
craving into a hypersensuous pleasure.
The dinner or supper developed into an elaborate banquet, partaken
of on reclining couches, accompanied by wines of Corinth, Samos,
Chios, and Tenedos, the fumes of incense, the strains of music, and
the singing of pages and beautiful maids. The couches on which they
partook of their repasts and offered their generous libations to the
gods were ornamented with tortoise-shell, ivory, and bronze, some
being inlaid with pearls and precious stones; the mattresses were of
purple embroidered with gold. Then Archestratus, the Syracusan, who had
travelled far and wide in quest of alimentary dainties of different
lands, was the Carême of the Attic cuisine. His much-lauded poem on
"Gastronomy" is unfortunately lost to posterity, and thus it may not
be compared with that of Berchoux, composed twenty centuries later.
This poem Athenæus has termed a treasure of light, every verse of which
was a precept, and from which numerous cooks drew the principles of an
art that rendered them illustrious. The cook in the "Thesmophorus" of
Dionysius, however, denounces Archestratus, his rules, and his maxims.
But cooks are notoriously jealous and prone to asperse their rivals,
just as a jealous woman will decry another member of her sex whom men
admire. His aspersions, therefore, are not to be weighed against the
avalanche of encomiums that Archestratus has received. It was to the
select few who appreciated the delicacies and importance of his art
that his poem was addressed. He spoke with authority, and not as the
scribes. Witness his stately opening stanza, one of the few surviving
fragments of his epic:
"I write these precepts for immortal Greece,
That round a table delicately spread,
Or three, or four, may sit in choice repast,
Or five at most. Who otherwise shall dine
Are like a troop marauding for their prey."
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