The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
The volume in question referred, indeed, to "lamb," and proved to be
the excessively rare first edition of "The Essays of Elia" (London,
1823). It was slightly foxed, but otherwise in excellent condition,
and contained some marginal annotations in manuscript. On carefully
examining the handwriting, we became convinced it was that of Charles
Lamb--there could be no possible doubt of it. The only writing on the
fly-leaf was, "To W. W., from C. L."--the "W. W." presumably being
William Wordsworth. In the volume, since attired by the binder as it
deserves, are several slight alterations in "The South Sea House," and
some addenda to "Valentine's Day."
But by far the most important annotation occurs in "A Dissertation
on Roast Pig." It is apparent at a glance that this was a serious
afterthought ere the volume left the author's hands and the types
confronted him with any lapses he had made--an apology, in fact, on
the part of the author for whatever reference might be considered
disparaging or in any wise inconsiderate as regards the worth of the
elder animal. For, in consistency, a jewel that sparkles throughout the
pages of "Elia," the parents might not be reviled without reflecting
upon the children. Moreover, however "mild and dulcet" a nursling
pigling, roasted _secundum artem_, may be to those of educated tastes,
it is a dish that cloys from its very mellifluence if repeated too
often, whereas in pork matured it is invariably a case of cut and come
again.
From the volume and chapter in question we transcribe the annotation,
_verbatim et literatim_, where it follows, as a postscript, the
concluding line, "he is a weakling--a flower":
"Methinks my mind (animadverted by the infant pearl) hath been
too evasive. There is he who, having shed the downy robes
of childhood, is clad in the _toga virilis_ of a glorious
chief. Hast thou ever on occasion savoured his matured nether
extremities, if haply thou wert blessed with an appetite and
appreciation commensurate with their unctuous worth? Regard
those feet--those parsley-garnished feet! See the pearly
whiteness of the ankles, the coral pink of the petitoes!
Meseems a man might arise in the small hours of a winter
morning to savour such a dish. It should summon the shade of
Lucullus. It should not only reconcile man to his lot, but it
should render him thankful for it. Imagine the passion of a
stricken youth (stricken by the pedal glories and faultless
poise of a Taglioni), and then note by comparison the exalted
rapture which should be engendered by _such_ feet as these!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account