The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
"In wandering through Covent Garden market, and passing from
floral dreams to the vegetables, I often pause before the
peas. Do I yearn for them in their adolescence? do I associate
them with the duckling and the lamb? Nay; I await a time when
they shall have folded and creased within themselves their
_perfected_ saccharine excellence, to be released in the
kitchen of the winter.
"I can see a pig--a pig of one hundred and eighty
pounds--classical in all the tints of its marble freshness.
It sheds its internal graces in an excellent and cleanly
market. With deft execution the white-aproned purveyor removes
a _spare-rib_ from a side. Then in front of the site of the
_spare-rib_ there remains an area of unequalled promise--a
tract of the most delightsome possibilities. Let a piece be
cut about fourteen inches long and eight wide, when after it
has hung two or three days, I counsel thee to submerge it in
sweet pickle for a week. Then boil it with a quart of the
garden peas, with a shred, a hint, a sigh of onion. Allow it
to cool, and when freed of every vestige of vegetable matter,
place it in a garnished dish.
"No poem ever stirred the human heart, no slab of tessellated
pavement ever fired the archæologist, with respectful interest
akin to that evoked by this entrancing esculent. It is a fresh
wave in the sea of sapors--an approximation, a convolution
of two entities divinely transfused, which to conceive, it
must be tasted. It elevates the sense of taste to the highest
pinnacle of human aspiration. It is a _memory_ to inspire
gentle thoughts and tranquillize the mind; a _presence_ that
is a beatitude, and that looms in the visions of the future as
a thing to live for."
Less secretive than communicative in most of his ways, the hog is
nevertheless an enigma as regards his natural term of life. Not that
for a moment his native modesty forbids his announcing his age, or
that his lease of life equals that of Epimenides, but that, owing to
circumstances over which he has no control,--the greed and voracity
of man,--he is handicapped from proclaiming the full extent of
his longevity. "The natural age of a hog's life is little known,"
observes the learned Hampshire rector-naturalist; "and the reason is
plain--because it is neither profitable nor convenient to keep that
turbulent animal to the full extent of its time." The man were a dolt
who would take exceptions to White's natural-history observations, so
lucidly and delightfully set forth in the pages of "Selborne." And yet,
so great was his sympathy for all animals and dumb creatures, may not
the term "turbulent" have been possibly a slip of the pen or fault of
the types for "buoyant" or "complacent," with no malice prepense, as in
the case of Spenser and the generality of the poets?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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