The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
The mistress of the household who would render herself trebly
appreciated, and who by ministering to man's palate may the more
readily guide, direct, and control his character, should train herself
unerringly in the art of compounding appetising and wholesome sauces.
To be sure, some of these manipulated by competent masculine hands--but
how often slurred by some fatigued or indifferent _sous-chef_!--may be
obtained at one's club or the better-class restaurants. But here in
many instances the wine-cellar is apt to be uncertain; while frequent
dining out is not to be compared with the sense of comfort of dining
at home when the kitchen, even though unpretentious, is carefully
administered, the menu varied, the wines perfect of their kind, and
where Her Gracious Serenity's address may have conjured some dainty
entrée whose sauce, sapid and velvety, leaves nothing to be desired.
One might tire of this, perchance, with no change for a sixmonth, as
one might weary of constant sunshine or a too lavish profusion of
tender epithets. Yet it is a desirable condition, nevertheless, to fall
back upon; and in the end far the safest for digestion.
And this despite Balzac, who well understood the cuisine no less than
the "Comédie Humaine,"--that "marriage must necessarily combat a
monster who devours everything--daily routine"; or his other definition
in the "Physiology of Marriage," a physiological study that was
inspired by Savarin's "Physiology of Taste,"--"_Pressurez le mariage,
il n'en sortira jamais rien que du plaisir pour les garçons et de
l'ennui pour les maris._"
The wise woman will have many side-lights in her composition; and in
the kitchen her sauces will have many shadings.
Let us toast her in a glass of sparkling St. Péray, and acknowledge
that without her there were no home cuisine and consequently no home
life. So closely does the art advocated by the late lamented Mrs.
Glasse touch upon the fundamental happiness of mankind; and sauces
which render it an art supreme still further accentuate the amenities.
It has been said that it is not obligatory for lovely arms and
shoulders to be acquainted with rhetoric. However this may obtain--and
there are admirers both of shapely shoulders and of the graces of
languages, there can be no doubt that charming women who possess a
taste for gastronomy which they can put to practical use upon occasion,
are an infinitely greater desideratum than whose energies may be
centred strictly upon flounces or the study of metaphysics.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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