The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
With the following sauces, besides the simpler forms of espagnole
and velouté, much may be accomplished at home: cream béchamel, sauce
piquante, sauce bordelaise, maître-d'hôtel and béarnaise, hollandaise,
sauce an vin blanc, sauce au beurre noir (plain, or with shallots and
parsley added), tomato sauce and its special form _à la Richelieu_,
and, finally, Francatelli's sauce Number 65 for mutton and dark-fleshed
game.[49] If, apart from those enumerated, madame be an artist in the
fashioning of sauce tartare, the mayonnaise and its shadings, and a
plain French salad dressing, all will be lovely sailing. What's sauce
for the goose, however, is not necessarily sauce for the gander, and
_vice versa_. Women will prefer the cream béchamel, mayonnaise, and
Francatelli, and the sterner sex will like them all.
It may not prove entirely without profit if to these be added sauce
_à la Schönberg_, which harmonises not only with halibut, flounder,
sea-bass, and sole, but with chicken-breasts and white-fleshed
game-birds as well, when one desires a change from the usual modes of
preparation:
"_Sauce à la Schönberg._ Make a roux of a tablespoon of butter
and flour, brown slightly, add two shallots finely minced, and
a pint of chicken broth, three tablespoons of tomato sauce,
a small bay-leaf, two cloves, some finely minced parsley, a
teaspoon of cognac, and a little white wine. Season with salt
and pepper, and strain. Then add a half can of mushrooms,
slice and brown them in a little butter with a few dice of
sweetbreads previously cooked, and, just before removing from
the range, the yolk of an egg and a half cup of cream."
The professional chef may possibly criticise it,--mesdames the
"'Compleat' Housewives" will discover in it a fragrant note of
satisfaction.
Will new sauces continue to be invented? Assuredly; of culinary as
well as other novelties there will always be an abundant supply,
however bizarre or lacking in excellence compared with the old. But
in new dishes it will be new combinations for the most part, varying
but little from the classics and those already known, rather than any
distinctly novel forms of superior merit, such as have been recently
evolved in floriculture, for instance. For the art of cookery is of
ancient time, while the evolution of the flower, especially the floral
queen, the rose, is comparatively new; and where the one has still
untold possibilities, the other has well-nigh attained its full tide
of savour and perfection, at least in theory and understanding, if not
nearly so often in practice as were to be desired.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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