The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
An extended disquisition, redolent of truffles and odorous of the
herb-garden, might be devoted to the subject of sauces, of which
Charles Ranhofer in his recent manual, "The Epicurean," presents two
hundred and forty-six. But this were invading the practical domain of
the cookery books, and wandering too far from the lines of the subject
under consideration--the history and province of Gastronomy.
[Illustration]
THE SPOILS OF THE COVER
"It is difficult to imagine a happier conjunction than the
blending of the symbols when the arms of a sportsman are
quartered with those of a cook. The tints of the autumnal
woods reflected in the plumage of mature and lusty game are
types of rich experiences and genial sentiments which flit
about the sportsman's board and linger at his hearth with
as gracious a fitness as that which diffuses a faint blush
through the russet of a well-cooked mallard's breast, and with
a zest equal to the relish which lurks within a woodcock's
thigh."--JOHN ALDERGROVE.
How that beechwood on a distant hillside, its tall trees despoiled
of their foliage, and its skirts lighted with the clinging gold of
the saplings, stands out against a hoar November sky and the tablets
of memory, as one recollects an accommodating covey of grouse, a
successful "right and left," and the hoarse clamour of the crows whose
conclave was disturbed by the salvo of the barrels!
Of the wealth of aliments bestowed upon man by a bountiful
Providence for his sustenance and delectation, none lends a greater
grace or ministers more to the variety of the table than game. The
offspring of wild nature, nursed upon its fruits, its mast, and
its vegetation, and exhaling the very essence of its most secluded
recesses, it sheds an added lustre even upon the most elaborate repast.
Its comparative rarity, together with that quality which may be best
defined as distinction, invests it with a heightened charm; while to
the sportsman it is indelibly associated with scenes the recollection
of which causes the pulse to throb with a renewed joy in the sense of
living. Its pursuit naturally leads to an abiding love for nature; so
that the bird in the thicket, the wild fowl in the marsh, and the hare
in the covert become to the votary of sport more than mere adjuncts of
gustatory delight. Who shall ever forget the first game-bird he has
killed, or the first "pound trout" he has captured with the fly?--the
souvenir comes like a burst of autumnal radiance, or the redolence
of vernal flowers. To what enchantments is not game the open-sesame;
and what halcyon visions does it not enshrine! It is the emblem of
plenteousness, the symbol of maturity. The gilded woods and ripened
fruits, the teeming fields and garnered sheaves, the purple haze and
mellow afterglow, the harvest moon and the elixir of the frost--all the
largesse of the year is typified in the least of the wild life that is
included in the term "game."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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