The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
The mullet was served by the Romans with a seasoning of pepper, rue,
onions, dates, and mustard, to which was added the flesh of the
sea-hedgehog reduced to a pulp and oil. When the priceless liver alone
was to be eaten by an emperor or a senator, it was cooked and then
seasoned with pepper, salt, or a little garum, some oil was added, and
hare's or fowl's liver, and oil poured over the whole.
The turbot was another favourite supplied by the sea, and one will
remember Martial's panegyric concerning it: "However great the dish
that holds the turbot, the turbot is still greater than the dish."
From the foam-fleeced flocks of Proteus many other fish with strange
names were transferred by the wealthy Romans to their vast aquaria--the
sargus, the harp-fish, the hyca, the synodon, the hespidus, the
chromis, the callichithys,
"The orphus, the sea-grayling, too, who haunts
The places where the sea-weed most abounds."
The huge tunny and sturgeon, the tiny anchovy, and, in fact, nearly
every denizen of the ocean appeared upon the Roman tables in some
form. The dolphin was a sacred fish, and was left unmolested to pilot
Triton's car. Even the polypus, sea-urchin, and cuttlefish were held
in great esteem. The scaurus or char, a species unknown to us, and the
murex, an edible purple mussel of which the finest flavoured came from
Baiæ were highly prized. Fatted eels were considered a great delicacy,
and among fresh-water species the tench, carp, and pike were the most
employed. Piscis was the Phryne of the Roman feasts, and dolphins,
whales, and mermaids appear to be the only species that were not
consumed.
According to Juvenal, who relates the story at great length, the
members of Domitian's cabinet were one day suddenly summoned to the
Alban Villa, where they were obliged to remain in waiting while the
emperor gave audience to a fisherman who had brought him an unusually
large _Rhombus_, and when they were finally admitted they found they
had nothing to debate about except whether the fish was to be minced or
cooked in a special dish, there being none of sufficient size in the
imperial kitchens. After mature deliberation, a special receptacle was
decided upon, when the audience was dismissed. The turbot was served
with a _sauce piquante_.
Nor were the affluent nobles and business men far behind the triumvirs,
consuls, and emperors in their ruinous manner of living. Autocracy set
the pace, and her wealthy vassals were not slow to follow. Trimalchio,
the moneyed landholder, was accustomed to serve a wild boar whole, with
a number of live fieldfares inside, ready to fly out as soon as they
were given their liberty by Carpus, his professional carver. These, as
they fluttered about the room, were caught by fowlers with reeds tipped
with bird-lime.
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